A short drive over the hill to Borth from base camp, and I parked in the road just above where I had caught the bus. It was overcast and sufficiently cool to warrant a woolly hat and gloves. As I looked to the hills and towards Aberdyfi I could see bright blue sky so I hoped that I would walk into the sunshine!
I availed myself of the conveniences, and found my touching board from Wednesday and set off! It was a walk through Borth, which was quite interesting and in places very colourful with artwork and a selection of dragons! It then cut out on the promenade. I was presented with an interesting dilemma of needing to choose between the Wales Coast path and the Ceredigion one. Decided on the latter, which takes me right to end of the coast here (less than a mile and a swim from Aberdyfi!) rather than a long inland loop to Machynlleth – which I am unlikely to be able to finish on this trip).
I was directed off the promenade and across the golf course, to a section on over grassy (and wet paths) through a reed bed and along the side of the Alon leri. This was long and heavy going as the grass was too long and a bit slippery and wet under foot. I eventually came out by a foot bridge along side the railway and over the Alon Leri.
I was in need of a coffee stop but I carried on after a section on road and a bridle way through to a nature reserve. Here I found a rock to sit on and took in a much needed coffee. The weather was definitely perking up and I seemed to have picked my time well as the tide was well out. I walked around the dunes to as close as I could to Aberdyfi (without getting in sinky sand!) and marked that as the end of the on the trail section.
I had a lovely walk back along a long stretch of sandy beach, seeing the occasional dog walker, lots of groynes and sea defences, the remnants of an ancient forest at the waters edge. I climbed back up on the promenade at Borth to have some lunch! It was at this point I was asked a couple of times to do a questionnaire by some teenagers on a geography field trip.
I did the final mile back to the car feeling rather stiff even though it had all been very flat! as I realised the distance I had covered in total was just over 10 miles!
Final running total for this few days!
On the trail 15.5 miles, off the trail 8.1 Total 23.6
Day 1 and 2 October 9th and 10th – Clarach Bay to Aberystwyth and Clarach Bay to Borth
On the trail 8,918 steps 4.1 miles 12,576 steps 5.8 miles
Off the trail 5,186 steps 2.3 miles 1071 steps 0.8 miles
TOTAL 14,104 steps, 6.4 miles 14,666 steps 6.6 miles
A couple of good days on both walking from a touching point I set up on a rock at the far end of the static chalet and caravan park where I am staying at Clarach Bay (and on the coast path obviously!). Filling in a gap caused by Storm Ali in 2018 and generally recharging my batteries after a very eventful patch!
The first walk climbed up constitution hill, and I was rewarded with fabulous views over Aberystwyth. A slow steep descent followed! I then walked the promenade and round the harbour for another couple of miles. Weather ideal for walking!
And lots of dragons!
Eventually I walked back into town, and picked up a taxi back to Clarach bay (very decadent!).
The second walk was a good deal more strenuous and took me on a very uppy downy path to Borth. It was classic coastal walking and another good day for walking though windier. I didn’t cover the ground very fast but concluded better to be safe than sorry!
It was a great day for fungi!
I established a touching point in Borth, and got the bus back to Aberystwyth and then another decadent taxi to Clarach bay.
The weather forecast probably precludes much progress tomorrow, which looks like it is going to berather wet!!! Maybe a good day for catching up a novel or knitting!
Day 14 June 22 – Bosherton, Stackpole Quay, Barafundle, Broad Haven and back to Bosherton
On the trail 11,259 steps 5.1miles
Off the trail 6,643 steps 3.1 miles
TOTAL 17,902 steps, 8.2 miles
Took the car beyond the army firing range to the National trust car park at Bosherton, for a final coast path walk! One I have done several times before, and particularly with Jane in the Autumn of 2013… nearly 10 years ago. I knew I was in for a real treat, and it began with the inland section to Stackpole Quay via the beautiful lily ponds (lilies out) and 8 arch bridge, followed by about a mile on a farm track over to Stackpole Quay. I paused for coffee and barabrith (very good!) in the National Trust café.
It was warm with a light breeze and really good walking conditions for the next part of the trail. I set up a touching point (for days on the trail ahead) before a very civilised ascent up National Trust steps and over the headland to Barafundle, which is a really beautiful place – with the classic through the arch view, followed by a very civilised descent on sandy steps courtesy again of the National Trust. I walked across the beach and I had a rest on a rock in the shade before the ascent on to the headland beyond Barafundle. There were also lots of views of what is to come when I return to take up the trail in Pembrokeshire again at some point.
I walked a good way round the headland with views and craggy bits and could feel the breeze throughout which was a blessing! Eventually I made it to the other side and remembered that the path over to this headland was a bit weird – I came through on a small path through the bracken and in the end climbed down some rocks (not advised!) to get onto what I now know is called Broad Haven beach. I have visited this beach many times on the lily ponds walk but never known what it was actually called.
I found a spot to sit on the sand and have some lunch and just enjoy the beauty of the spot. It was not very peaceful as somewhere up on the headland there were some people strimming, and the army was firing on the range and there were other people around too (not as remote as some of my lunch spots). The final section was back past the shady side of the lily ponds and up to the car. I set up a touching point at the end for another day!
This has been a very good break in a comfortable base camp and making good progress on the trail. The weather has been pretty fabulous – one day wet, two days a bit hot, and the rest pretty perfect! Here are my final totals. On this trip I have completed 70 miles on the coast path, 24 off the trail, and 94 miles in total. And overall I have done 63 miles off the trail, and a staggering 433 miles of the Wales Coast path!
I drove to Dale, and parked up. I have walked this part of the trail before (on a very cold day I recollect and probably about 12 years ago). It is also in my Ordnance Survey Pembrokeshire and Gower walk book. I decided to do the walk the opposite way round – with the more challenging side of the peninsula on the outward leg, and the easy section which mostly maintains height on the way back (with one long descent at the end). I found my touching point from my last visit to Dale, and decided to avail myself of the café at the end of the walk. Conditions were good, sunny, gentle breeze about 20 degrees! I found the conveniences and then set off!
The initial section wound up to Dale fort on a minor road through trees. From there it began a steady run of open headland climbs, descending to the shore and back up again. There was a particularly nice section above Watwick Bay. I stopped at a convenient step by a disused walking gate. This was the first time I met a couple with Milly the dog! They helped too as they tried a route that look right but wasn’t so I didn’t go on to make that mistake.
In all there were 4 ups and downs on this side of the peninsula and the walking was splendid if a little sweaty. The final ascent came out to the cottages near the end of St Ann’s head. By this stage I was looking for somewhere to have lunch. Eventually I sat on a bench by a closed lighthouse café. This was a bit sad, and not the first closed café I have seen (Pembroke High Street had several). As I was eating, the couple with Milly passed me again, they had stopped on one of the beaches along the way for their lunch.
The path down the other side of the peninsula was as I had remembered it, and much easier than the outbound leg of this walk. The views were fabulous. The path varied from narrow and overgrown to a wide grassy track (which you could imagine Ross Poldark riding his horse along). I was particularly delighted with the views of Skokholm and Skomer Island and further along a clear sighting of the unmistakable shape of Grassholm island I had visited. Eventually the Hookies and the Dale airfield came back into the view from previous walks on this trip! I overtook Molly and her guardians again on this stretch as they had a rest before the final descent.
The final descent (not always my strength) was OK and I carefully managed a long stretch of uneven steps. Then I reconnected with my touching post this side of the peninsula, and walked back to the toilet and the café for another piece of their excellent coffee cake. I also saw another of those odd trail signs with the frog on it!
Day 13 June 21 West Angle Bay to Freshwater West
On the trail 10,182 steps 4.7 miles
Off the trail steps 8,947 steps 4.1 miles
TOTAL 19,129 steps, 8.8 miles
Well. It started early so I could catch the Coastal Cruiser from Freshwater West back to West Angle Bay and then walk back. There was a great view of the beach from the bus stop, and I was looking forward to walking on it later (and when the tide was out!)
On the bus were various other walkers and people going to Pembroke to go shopping. Gordon (the driver) warned the path was ‘challenging’ and I bore in mind his statement about 7 steep ups and downs ahead. No chance of availing myself of the café as it wasn’t open when we got to West Angle, but I did use the toilets and, touch my touching point set off!.
I had made a promise to myself after some challenging terrain from Moylgrove to Poppit Sands in 2021, that I would turn back if it got like that again!
Well, the first couple of miles were very pretty and gentle, with fine views over to the Dale peninsula I had walked yesterday. Conditions were good.
Then came the warning sign, which was rapidly followed by the first steep and rough down and up section, which was also very near the edge of the cliffs, which I negotiated carefully. This was much more difficult terrain than I had been doing yesterday. I did a second one but above the third one, which was very rough and unstable as well as very edgy, I decided this was really not for me. I had a coffee and turned back! There are times when the sensible choice is the best one, and I wasn’t enjoying the jeopardy at all.. I set up a touching point but I doubt I’ll be back!
After I left the steep sections, it was a lovely walk back. I had enough time to have a leisurely lunch on West Angle beach, and a mint choc chip ice cream from the café. I talked to one of the other walkers from the bus and we caught the bus together. I returned to Freshwater West. Gordon the driver dropped me at the far end of the beach, I set up a touching point back on the trail and I walked through the dunes, to below the cliffs at the far end of the beach. I was very glad on closer examination of the coastal path above me on the cliffs I had made the choice I had!. Walking on the beach got me level with the first 2 ups and downs at the other end of the walk (and probably means I only missed about 2 miles of the trail!)
The beach was absolutely fantastic and is the one used in the final Harry Potter films (and where Dobbies’ grave is!). I didn’t walk through the dunes to find that, but the beach and the dunes were clearly recognisable and it was a glorious afternoon for a long stretch on the beach. I walked to the edge of Gupton Burrows on the beach, but could see the edge of the firing range and the warning flags (and hear them using it!).
I returned to the car, and as I am going to have to wait for another occasion to do the walk round the edge of the range (when the army are not using it!!). I set up a rock touching point at the most distant point of the beach I got too, near a very large rock pool. I then used the car as a transitory touching point, so I can walk from Bosherton tomorrow as a finale to this section of my walking the Wales coast path.
Had a very leisurely start to the day. Tidied up abit, and wrote some mock post cards, which I then printed. Sad about the demise of the post card, but can see people communicate so rapidly these days that they have gone out of fashion! Anyway job done and a few emailed (as I don’t have all my address book following my pc issues just before this holiday. Hoping to rectify that when I get home!.)
Did some food preparation and shortly after that Rhiannon and Pero arrived and a good couple of hours of chat, lunch and a walk on the beach at Freshwater east followed. Following that I chilled and contemplated route planning for the next couple of days – which needs to include a return trip to Dale to finish off the bit I haven’t done yet (though I have walked it before on a very cold day!).
Day 11 June 19 Hundleton to Angle
On the trail 24,855 steps 11.5 miles
Off the trail 3,685 steps 1.7 miles
TOTAL 28540 steps, 13.2 miles
Drove to Angle, availed myself of the facilities by the beach and then returned to a car park in the village, near the bus stop. I caught the 9:29am bus back to Hundleton, with the same driver as on Saturday. It seemed a very long way back, but tried to stay undaunted by this. I walked back to the gate post which was Saturday’s touching point and I had hatched a cunning plan.
The real route was set to go around the outside edge of a power station and another enormous refinery. I decided I really couldn’t face yet another long walk around a perimeter fence, and had hatched an inland route. It started on the road I had got to on the coast path on Saturday. I didn’t deviate from this when the path skirted off to the right. It meant about 5 miles on a very minor road (only 3 cars passed me for the entire duration). This route went up and down several times and then climbed gradually up to a cross roads. From there Angle bay came into view and the power station/refinery were also very present throughout!.#
It started well, but unfortunately there was one of the low bits that got a bit marshy and there was an enormous number of very over friendly horse flies. It was quite a steep climb, so I couldn’t really do anything other than bat them off and discourage them with my walking poles. A lady with a jack Russell also helped me by knocking them off my trousers. She was the only person I saw walking on the road. As we got to the top of the hill, the horse flies diminished, but it was a good 10 minutes of jeopardy. Sadly the lady with the dog had to go back the way we had come! I had taken the precaution of jungle formula on my legs and thicker trousers and I had too many layers on my top half to be accessible. I had suffered last year after a suspected horse fly bite. And they were nothing like as prevalent then as they were this morning!
I decided to wait to stop for coffee until I reached the shore at Angle bay, which turned out to be about 11:40. I found a concrete block to rest on and had a breather.
The walk around the bay was easy going (occasionally a bit overgrown) and consistently low, finishing with a lovely wooded bit on the edge of an estate near Angle. After a couple of false starts, I eventually found Ben Couzen’s bench for lunch via the very discrete toilet at this end of Angle. I contemplated what to do and decided to do a little more round the headland (mainly in case it turned out I had been bitten by a horse fly and would not be able to do any more if I reacted like I did last year). It was also ideal conditions and I felt I had enough in my legs to do it. It was a lovely section, looking across to the end of the Pembroke Estuary and finally came out of the end of it and back to the coast line looking across to Dale and beyond.
Stopped on a well placed bench for a breather and then in the café at the beach end of Angle for some rum and raison ice cream, after I had established a new touching point. Hope I will use if before the end of the trail (for now on Friday!).
Up early to drive to Herbranston, and park by the beach in the free car park. I then had to walk up the hill to catch the Fflesci bus I booked yesterday to take me to Dale. I was there for 9am and the bus came about 9:20am!. On arrival in Dale, there was a convenient café, which served excellent coffee cake! I decided to do an extra bit to contribute to the Dale peninsula walk still to do. This turned out not to be the wisest choice.
I got to my touching post near Dale airfield, did a short section of the coast path, established a further touching point and back into Dale, which all took about an hour!
And then I started the walk for the day, which started with about ¾ of a mile on the road before reaching the Gann, and interesting section of marsh and stony beach and the first of the tidal crossings. It was only after this, that I realised I had made a tactical error because the car was on the other side of the second tidal crossing and that I wasn’t entirely sure of the tide times! Based on what I saw yesterday at Sandy Haven, I guessed I had a couple of hours before there would be a problem but not more than that! This was an unfortunate awakening and I wished I had cracked on with this walk rather than doing the extra bit in Dale!! (and if I missed the crossing point due to the tide it would add a further 2 and a half miles – the coast path walk book particularly did not recommend this!). I had also slightly misjudged the distances involved on this coastal section too! It being further than I had thought. All in all planning not the best!
So I had to keep the pace up on the initial stony beach section and a very overgrown section. It came down to a wall around a bay and I had a brief stop on the path at a bench (which was too high from the ground). I did another couple of miles (which turned out to be quite up and down) and energetic. At least the path was not so overgrown! Eventually I came to a point where there was a path off the coast path. I was now about half an hour from when I was not certain about the tide! This was not good for my nervous system.
I decided to take an inland route a path and the road for speed mainly (as I really didn’t want to do the extra 2 ½ miles if the crossing was underwater). I was also tired and had already done an average days steps. I knew I could do the distance on the road in about 30 minutes (where as the coast path would be slower). It was not ideal but I took the inland cut! Thankfully I arrived with more than enough time to cross the tidal crossing (via my touching point). I returned to the car and had my picnic (using my folding chair) over looking Sandy Haven beach (until it started to rain), before heading to base camp!
Day 9 June 17 Pembroke to Hundleton
On the trail 7,276 steps 3.33 miles
Off the trail 5,924 2.67 miles
TOTAL 13,200 steps, 6 miles
I woke up to heavy rain and achy leg muscles after yesterday’s exertions. I dithered over what to do and eventually settled on driving to Pembroke and doing a circuit including the coast path to Hundleton and back again. Before starting I attempted unsuccessfully to buy postcards so got some envelopes and will improvise! I then had a coffee and some restorative barabrith before making my way back to my touching point from the trail from Pembroke Dock.
I started and it began with a choice of routes around Pembroke castle. There were lots of flags (hopefully marking the King’s official birthday), and I took the outer ring. Then up a side road and up a cut passed the church at Monkton (which was an abbey church due to historic monks!). I walked along the road for about a mile following the trail. I passed some folk keen to give me refreshments – which were really for people doing an ultra marathon! I proceeded to see many runners on the next part of the trail. I also worked out where I could get a bus back into Pembroke if I came back the same way from the far end of Monkton.
The coast past wound down to the edge of the pembroke river estuary (with flood poles) and then up into a series of field with views down to the river and across to the territory I had walked earlier (and particularly last Saturday’s refinery with the scary bridges!). The weather had perked up a bit and I encouraged all the passing runners I met! Eventually after a challenging stile, the path joined a road gently uphill and coming out near Hundleton. I stopped some runners going the wrong way at that point, as I established a touching point (including a running route orange ribbon), before turning off the path into Hundleton.
I was heading for the benches at the centre of the village for lunch, and was contemplating the bus timetable at the bus stop, when the Coastal cruiser stopped on the other side of the road. I had a discussion with the driver (who was eventually going to Pembroke) and hopped on board (as this seemed a good option to get a sense of where this bus goes) and how I might be able to use it. It was also a good option for my achy legs! An hour on the bus followed, which was helpful. The next bit of the trail is going to be challenging with the buses and the distances etc… There is yet another refinery and I may yet have to be creative with my route planning! Certainly don’t want a repeat of yesterday’s debacle!
Day 6 June 14th – Day off – boat trip to Grassholm from St Justinian’s nr St David’s
Had a leisurely start to the day and was glad I was finally going to get to go on 2022’s boat trip. Can’t say I wasn’t apprehensive about it too as I am not the greatest sailor! It was hot! So I was glad I wasn’t walking. I drove to St David’s and parked at oriel parc. I had a coffee and a cake (a gluten free carrot cake which was very tasty) before being a bit of a tourist in St David’s. No success on finding sun hats or suitable postcards.
I didn’t go in the cathedral as it was shut (and numerous groups of children were having picnics prior to leaver’s services). I went to see where Jane is in the cremated remains plot, and paused for a bit. There were some very impressive new beehives near by (I am sure she would approve!).
I walked back up in to town and then had a very leisurely lunch back in the oriel parc café. I made my way to St Justinian’s and had an ice cream, before proceeding to the embarkation point for the boat!
We left about 4:30pm on the blue shark and it was a super trip. Ideal conditions on the way out seeing Dolphins and on the way back some of the others saw a whale fin (needless to say I was looking in the wrong direction at the pivotal moment).
As we approached Grassholm the number of sea birds increased exponentially. Gannets, kittiwakes, razor bills, puffins, manx shearwaters and seals! The smell was overwhelming and as we held position and went round the island. It was quite choppy (and I didn’t feel particularly good). It was a sight to behold on a sunny evening.
One thing really struck me as we were heading out to Grassholm that I had walked all the coast path I could see for miles and miles and miles….
Day 7 June 15 Milford Haven to Sandy Haven
On the trail 2 steps 13,413 6.25 miles
Off the trail – steps 6219 2.84 miles
TOTAL 19382 steps, 9.09 miles
I tried to make an early start so I could walk before it got really hot. This was not entirely successful. I drove to Milford Haven and parked the car (and availed myself of some convenient conveniences!). I walked back to the touching point I had established by the war memorial on Saturday and then on to the bus stop (mostly on the trail) by Milford Haven tescos.
I proceeded unhelpfully to get on the wrong bus! It started ok going through Haven and Hubbeston, but when it started to go in the wrong direction completely I realised my error. I had said Herbranston to the driver but I thing he thought I had said Haverfordwest!. So I walked back again towards Milford Haven tescos. I decided to walk on from there and then catch the bus back where there was less potential for getting on the wrong bus!
Initially I walked through the streets of Haven, and it was a bit up and down and rather hot! I came down a cut to Gelliswick bay to encounter a large fox! I walked round the bay, and then onto a tarmac path round the first part of South Hook LNG terminal. There were many, many signs asking me to keep out and away and lots of imposing fences. Instead of a scary bridge over the pipes, I descended to a beach with many intimidating notices (especially about not lighting a barbecue!) to go under the pipes this time. I reascended up on to the low headland. It was no longer a tarmac path fence on one side (with notices!) and then hedges and overgrowth so not much in the way of views. I eventually stopped when it was low enough to peer over and had a coffee sitting on the path! (I saw no-one on this section of the path!)
After that it got more scenic, I did see some workers from the LNG terminal on a higher path to me (a hot day for wearing high vis and hard hats! There was even a sign to say I had finished the walk around the LNG terminal (in case I could not work this out!)
The path followed the low cliff edge and eventually went down to sea level. I succumbed to temptation and went on to Sandy Haven beach and did about a mile on the beach rather than more of an undulating low path. It was lovely, with a cooling breeze, and occasionally more hazy sunshine. I walked round to the river crossing to the next part of the trail (and was relieved to see a bridge rather than stepping stones). I crossed and established a touching point for another walk, before crossing back to a shady spot for lunch on a rock.
After a leisurely lunch watching passing horses and dog walkers, I went off the trail though the long way round if the bridge was inpassable) up to Herbranston. I had half an hour on a hot bench on the green, before the bus took me back to Milford Haven tescos. I walked round to the car park (the third time I had walked on that particular piece of road today) and reconnected with the convenient conveniences! Before coming back to base via a trip to Lidl!
Off trail STEPS 8,137 3.79miles, On trail STEPS 6554 3.01 miles
TOTAL 14,697 steps 6.8 Miles
Another long drive out to the car park I had seen near the café on the inland cut yesterday. Timed my arrival too so the café at Runwayskiln would be open. There was a bit of palaver getting the coffee, as the owner who was serving was working in an area he didn’t usually. So there was difficulty getting the coffee and then working the till. I was given a very good complementary bakewell tart, which I enjoyed (eventually) sitting in a converted pig sty. I used the facilities and was abit shocked to see a large toad (which I nearly speared with my walking poles) which was lurking behind the cubicle door.
Anyway I set off in the misty conditions (as it had been yesterday). When the sun did break through it got rather humid so with the exception of blotting out the view the mist was quite helpful. I did the inland leg first following some rather strange way mark signs with frogs (or toads on!), then a stretch on a narrow lane, before a connecting lane and track to the abandoned Dale airfield. There was another bit where I was conscious of the horse flies near some cows and I had a conversation with a couple of cyclists (who are not permitted on the coast path itself!).
The misty conditions made the state of the airfield all the more forlorn. Just me, the sheep and the hard standing slowly crumbling! It was a bit eerie but easy walking! I realised as I was going that the coast path was a stones throw away (and had seen someone sitting on a bench which turned out to feature later!).
Eventually just above Dale, I cut on to the coast path and established a touching point to take up the trail on another day. I then began to walk back on the coast path – which was delightful easy walking (even if the views were somewhat obscured by the mist). I climbed up and down near the Hookses (a group of pink cottages) and shortly after the ascent found a wall to sit on for a coffee on the trail. I was very conscious not to sit on any more ants nests after yesterday. I admired the bees among the flowers!
I carried on on the coast path eventually coming out by the bench. This was conveniently empty and as it was lunch time I decided to stop there (and the view was surprisingly clear of mist). I found a spot by a low wall around some hard standing to relieve myself and settled to a very scenic lunch spot. A group of Australians arrived and decided to have their lunch on the low wall! I felt abit guilty. The final mile included a descent down to Marloes sands, and then back up again to the cut through to the café and touching point I had established yesterday. Then a repeat walk back to the car, via the toilets by the café (no toads this time!). At this point there was also evidence that the paths had been strimmed for easy access unlike the ones I had been walking on on Sunday.
I drove back via Milford Haven, to acquire something more comfortable to sit on. The holiday let has 2 very low and saggy sofas which I don’t seem to be able to get comfortable on! I bought a folding recliner (like the ones at Sandra and Peter’s caravan), which was a suitable bargain from Home Bargains. It will also fit in the car to go home at the end of this break and can live in the Rectory Summer House.
Neyland to Pembroke 13th June 2023
On the trail 16,538 STEPS 7.57 MILES
I decided to do a much less remote walk on this day and to carry on from Neyland due to the forecast heat. Today’s walk was mostly close to a bus route so I could duck out readily if it all got too hot. I started earlier and decided to walk and then get the bus back. I drove to Neyland and was ready to start at 9:15. I touched my rock touching point and set off! The initial section was up through Neyland streets, and then a wooded section alongside the marina, which led back up to the main road (A477). I would not normally be very enthusiastic about walking next to a main road, but this was a bit different. First the bridge over the marina and then the road continued to the Cleddau Bridge. I have driven across the bridge many times, and I had been looking forward to walking it and the views did not disappoint. The Samaritans notices at either end were a bit sobering.
The coast path worked its way down through Pembroke Haven (and a housing area) into Pembroke Dock. I found some toilets by Asda, and then started to walk around the old dockyard area. There were a sequence of painted benches and I had a coffee on the star wars one! It was getting hotter than I really liked but it was good to stop.
The trail climbed up to the Defensible Barracks through streets and a wooded path. The barracks looked rather austere and deteriorating! But the views across included a glimpse of the Preseli Hills (that my guide book had suggested were only visible on a good day).
More street walking followed, which was a bit up and down, before cutting down to a surprising rural section with paddocks and wild flower fields overlooking the Pembroke river, culminating in a very welcome woodland. By this stage I was close to where I wanted to finish, and also where I could get the bus back to the car. I paused for a long drink in the woodland before working out, I could probably get the next bus. I established a touching point as I left the trail, and had an ice cream at the garage by the bus stop. It was a very satisfying bus ride back to the car which took about 20 minutes!
On trail STEPS 16,600 Estimated distance, 7.5 miles
So here we are the 2023 section of Alison Way’s adventures on the Wales coast path. Picking up in Pembrokeshire where I left off in 2022, with a new set of waterproofs, new superfeet insoles in my walking boots and 4 new pairs of bridgedale socks (3 blue and 1 grey!). I have a comfortable base in a holiday let about mid-way along the trail I want to do on this holiday.
Looking for an easy starter to day 1 – decided to park the car in Neyland and get the bus to Milford Haven and walk back, a walk which is dominated by skirting around the enormous Milford Haven oil refinery. I found a free car park and a suitable bus stop, and waited. I established a touching point (a rock by the bus stop). The bus was about 10 minutes late, and dropped me in a parallel road to where I joined the trail by the town war memorial (establishing a touching point there to pick up on another day). Unfortunately I had believed my phone app and that we might have showers. It began to rain hard so I donned my new kagoul (blue and white polka dots!!) but my waterproof trousers were still in the car.
The initial trail took me through parts of Milford Haven, finding a much needed toilet by the water gardens, and then down to the black bridge, crossing castle pill. By this stage the unforecasted rain was hard and persistent!. I worked my way up to regain height through a housing estate, with discouraging signs suggesting it was a private road (though occasional coast path acorn stickers were reassuring). A rather dangerous section on the side of B4325 followed for about ¼ of a mile. Before heading down a farm track to Venn Farm. The track skirted the farm, and then across a couple of fields to nearer to the oil refinery. A track through some scrub and woodland eventually reached the coast line, and huge fences were surrounding the numerous solar panels in the fields around the oil refinery.
I met a couple just before the turn of the path along the coast. The coast path turned out to be fence on one side, hedge and overgrowth on the other with very occasional views of Milford Haven. The path was pretty overgrown too making it slow and wet going! There was impressive displays of wildflowers through the fence. I was in need of lunch and a break but being fussy about having a view I went about a mile and a half before somewhere suitable emerged.
In this section I encountered 3 foot bridges, over pipes and roads. These were made of wire sheets, and extremely transparent. The first 2 were flat and once I had realised not looking down was a good idea, not too bad. I have never been very keen on walking on things were you can see the world beneath you (on piers etc…). The last foot bridge was sloping down at about 30 degrees from horizontal. I gingerly crossed (as it was slippery due to the rain) and held on to aspects of the wire fence, which unhelpfully prevented access to the handrail! I really didn’t enjoy the last one (but needs must) and I went into ‘intrepid’ mode. At the other end of the bridge, I found some steps with sufficient view to warrant a lunch stop and had some much needed sustenance and I had calmed down significantly by the end of the break. It was still raining – but more a steady drizzle. I had a chat with a passing walker during lunch, and advised her not to look down on the footbridge ahead!
Thankfully there were no more footbridges, there was another section down to sea level, and back up again, and then quite a nice wooded section, with a wide path and not so overgrown as it had been around the refinery. Eventually the track reached a road into Hazelbeach and the path continued on a road by the shore back to the car. I enjoyed a rest on a wet British legion bench by the toilets in Hazelbeach and the rain had just about stopped.
I enjoyed the section on the road, admiring the views across Milford Haven and the different gardens and houses. It is clearly a very good year for flowers and ornamental cats and a delightful pig! I eventually made my way back to the car. I was a bit stiff as this had turned out to be a longer walk than I had anticipated! I also messed up using the phone step counter so the distance is a bit hazy but it was all pretty much on the trail!
St Martin’s Haven – Marloes Penisula 11th June 2023
Steps – 16,708 On trail 12,256 off trail 4452
Distance 7.68 miles on trail 5.62 miles off trail 2.06
Rather a leisurely start (walking commenced at 11:20)! Quite a long way to drive to the area where I finished in 2022 – also somewhat delayed by going rather wrong on the way! Anyway parked at the National Trust car park at St Martin’s Haven. There were loads of cars (and I was a bit concerned it was going to be really busy!) but it wasn’t. Turned out this was where you could get boat trips to Skomer Island. I was in the middle of the section of coast path I was going to do, so didn’t start with a touching point. It was misty and humid when I set off.
It was a bit eerie with the billowing mist, but the initial section had wide grassy paths and was very straightforward. I was a bit concerned about the fresh cow dung and a few horse flies (it was in this area I had succumbed to what I think was a horse fly bite which stopped walking earlier than I had planned in 2022). I carefully avoided all the fresher looking cow pats!
After about a mile, it became more typical coast path, rougher and a bit overgrown. I stopped and had a coffee break, perching on a convenient rock just before the path deteriorated. The scenery was impressive if rather misty. I had studied the map carefully and decided to cut back over to the other side (and the point I had stopped on the trail last year!). Also I have done this walk before (about 10 years ago!) and had a memorable bullock encounter on the other cut through which I did not want to repeat. At this point, I set up a touching point for when I continue. This rather mystified a couple who were having a snack by the gate to the inland path. The track came out by some toilets and a café. I used the former, and made plans to use the latter when I take up the trail again.
After a track across a field, I was then on a side road, and the road down to Martin’s Haven walking back towards Marloes for about ¾ of a mile before turning down a track I had used before which led down to the coast path. It was good to connect with my coast path sign touching point, before heading back towards St Martin’s Haven. Again I was struggling to find somewhere to stop for lunch as the path was very narrow and overgrown. Eventually after a couple of up and down bits, I found a grassy mound. This afforded a view, which improved as the mist briefly lifted whilst I ate my lunch. I was rather distracted by some black and white birds on the sea (?puffins?). Unfortunately the number of ants increased as I was eating and watching the birds, and I realised I was sitting very near an ants nest. Numerous ants then had to be evicted from my rucksack and seat pad.
The walk continued much as before and within about half an hour the mist had rolled back in. The scenery was lovely but it was humid and the path was surprisingly overgrown. Eventually it wound down to sea level and a small bay where the boat trips came in and out. I walked back up the road to the car park!
Tuesday 21st June – St Brides to Marloes (plus the beach at Newgale)
Total Steps: 16,351– 8504 steps on the trail , 7807 off the trail
Total: 7.5 miles 3.9 on the trail, 3.6 of the trail
Running Total: 70.1 miles – 44.3 miles on the trail, 25.8 miles off
It was a warm start, and a long drive back to St Brides to start the next part of the trail. I decided to do the inland leg first on this walk, and to try to walk until it got too warm. I ended up on a very wiggly route along the coastal back lanes in the car, and I was ready to go touching the coast path touching point just after 9:30am
The inland stretch of this walk first past a functioning but locked church, and then was across active farm land (fortunately mainly arable). There was one field with bullocks right on the other side thankfully but also lots of active horse flies around fresh dung near the path. It was pretty delightful with different crops, and some sections with good borders awash with wild flowers. It was quiet too, I met 2 couples both of whom I met again on the cliffs doing the same circuit as me). There were kissing gates linking the fields with short link paths, and a couple of styles, one with stone steps up.
I ended up in Marloes, with the path coming out by the facilities, which was very convenient. I initially went the wrong way (though this did mean I saw the clock tower) and then realising my mistake walked through the village and a little beyond to where a path connected to the coast path. I set up a touching point on the coast path sign, and had worked out where to park the car for the next leg of the path. I was soon coming out by the black cliffs and found a perching point for morning coffee in a cove which was completely idyllic. I lingered a little as it was so pretty.
The first section of the cliff path, with clear seas, warm sunshine and redstone cliffs was reasonably straightforward as well as beautiful, once I had climbed up from the cove. I passed a potential marquee reception venue, and then the cliffs rolled along soon joining the wall of the St Bride’s estate. There was one higher section, which was a bit of a stretch in the heat, but then it continued in much the same vein, winding back round the headland.
The second section of the coast path was close to the wall and further away from the edge, allowing a wide expanse of grassy growth to slip away to the cliffs. As I rounded the second corner of the wall, I came across a suitable bench for a lunch stop. It was about then as I sat down, that my leg started to bother me. I ended up using the seat pad, as I thought it was the edge of the bench – but I now realise it was the bite on the back of my thigh I either picked up then or had picked up earlier and not noticed. (The pictures show the extent of St Brides bay I have walked on this trip!)
It was an easy amble back to the car from there, and St Brides was very busy. So I went back to New Gale to try and fill the gap in the trail (2 miles) on the beach. I did manage about a third of that but the tide was too far in. I left a touching point on a stone and thought I would be back. It was lovely to walk on the beach but my thigh was aching a bit! I had a pricy ice cream and came back to base camp.
I investigated my thigh, which was just rather red at that point, and as the evening progressed it got very sore. I tried both bite cream and savlon to soothe it, neither helped. After watching bake off the professionals, I took a much closer look at the back of my thigh (with a mirror and my phone as a torch) – the problem area was now about the size of a milk bottle top, and blistering, sore and warm. I was abit alarmed and rang NHS 111. I dozed and about 11:30, they rang back first and I was more alarmed that the sore area had grown and they instructed me to mark round it. They rang back again at 1:30 and prescribed some antibiotics to pick up in Haverfordwest in the morning and to rest it. I contemplated the NHS website on bites, and also concluded I needed to cover it – and would pick up something to do that with the prescription. I didn’t sleep well.
I can’t see me managing any more of the trail on this visit – so I will have to pick up the trail on another visit from the black cliffs near Marloes. It has been fantastic and I am amazed I have done as much as I have in view of the difficulties with my fitness and the walker bus driver shortages. In the circumstances to have added another 44 miles to my tally on the trail is good (and over 70 miles in total!). I have been very blessed with the weather and God’s good earth in all its beauty!
The Adventures of Alison 