Day 12 June 20 – The Dale peninsula
On the trail 17,751 steps 8.1 miles
Off the trail 3,212 steps 1.6 miles
TOTAL 20,963 steps, 9.7 miles
I drove to Dale, and parked up. I have walked this part of the trail before (on a very cold day I recollect and probably about 12 years ago). It is also in my Ordnance Survey Pembrokeshire and Gower walk book. I decided to do the walk the opposite way round – with the more challenging side of the peninsula on the outward leg, and the easy section which mostly maintains height on the way back (with one long descent at the end). I found my touching point from my last visit to Dale, and decided to avail myself of the café at the end of the walk. Conditions were good, sunny, gentle breeze about 20 degrees! I found the conveniences and then set off!
The initial section wound up to Dale fort on a minor road through trees. From there it began a steady run of open headland climbs, descending to the shore and back up again. There was a particularly nice section above Watwick Bay. I stopped at a convenient step by a disused walking gate. This was the first time I met a couple with Milly the dog! They helped too as they tried a route that look right but wasn’t so I didn’t go on to make that mistake.
In all there were 4 ups and downs on this side of the peninsula and the walking was splendid if a little sweaty. The final ascent came out to the cottages near the end of St Ann’s head. By this stage I was looking for somewhere to have lunch. Eventually I sat on a bench by a closed lighthouse café. This was a bit sad, and not the first closed café I have seen (Pembroke High Street had several). As I was eating, the couple with Milly passed me again, they had stopped on one of the beaches along the way for their lunch.
The path down the other side of the peninsula was as I had remembered it, and much easier than the outbound leg of this walk. The views were fabulous. The path varied from narrow and overgrown to a wide grassy track (which you could imagine Ross Poldark riding his horse along). I was particularly delighted with the views of Skokholm and Skomer Island and further along a clear sighting of the unmistakable shape of Grassholm island I had visited. Eventually the Hookies and the Dale airfield came back into the view from previous walks on this trip! I overtook Molly and her guardians again on this stretch as they had a rest before the final descent.
The final descent (not always my strength) was OK and I carefully managed a long stretch of uneven steps. Then I reconnected with my touching post this side of the peninsula, and walked back to the toilet and the café for another piece of their excellent coffee cake. I also saw another of those odd trail signs with the frog on it!
Day 13 June 21 West Angle Bay to Freshwater West
On the trail 10,182 steps 4.7 miles
Off the trail steps 8,947 steps 4.1 miles
TOTAL 19,129 steps, 8.8 miles
Well. It started early so I could catch the Coastal Cruiser from Freshwater West back to West Angle Bay and then walk back. There was a great view of the beach from the bus stop, and I was looking forward to walking on it later (and when the tide was out!)
On the bus were various other walkers and people going to Pembroke to go shopping. Gordon (the driver) warned the path was ‘challenging’ and I bore in mind his statement about 7 steep ups and downs ahead. No chance of availing myself of the café as it wasn’t open when we got to West Angle, but I did use the toilets and, touch my touching point set off!.
I had made a promise to myself after some challenging terrain from Moylgrove to Poppit Sands in 2021, that I would turn back if it got like that again!
Well, the first couple of miles were very pretty and gentle, with fine views over to the Dale peninsula I had walked yesterday. Conditions were good.
Then came the warning sign, which was rapidly followed by the first steep and rough down and up section, which was also very near the edge of the cliffs, which I negotiated carefully. This was much more difficult terrain than I had been doing yesterday. I did a second one but above the third one, which was very rough and unstable as well as very edgy, I decided this was really not for me. I had a coffee and turned back! There are times when the sensible choice is the best one, and I wasn’t enjoying the jeopardy at all.. I set up a touching point but I doubt I’ll be back!
After I left the steep sections, it was a lovely walk back. I had enough time to have a leisurely lunch on West Angle beach, and a mint choc chip ice cream from the café. I talked to one of the other walkers from the bus and we caught the bus together. I returned to Freshwater West. Gordon the driver dropped me at the far end of the beach, I set up a touching point back on the trail and I walked through the dunes, to below the cliffs at the far end of the beach. I was very glad on closer examination of the coastal path above me on the cliffs I had made the choice I had!. Walking on the beach got me level with the first 2 ups and downs at the other end of the walk (and probably means I only missed about 2 miles of the trail!)
The beach was absolutely fantastic and is the one used in the final Harry Potter films (and where Dobbies’ grave is!). I didn’t walk through the dunes to find that, but the beach and the dunes were clearly recognisable and it was a glorious afternoon for a long stretch on the beach. I walked to the edge of Gupton Burrows on the beach, but could see the edge of the firing range and the warning flags (and hear them using it!).
I returned to the car, and as I am going to have to wait for another occasion to do the walk round the edge of the range (when the army are not using it!!). I set up a rock touching point at the most distant point of the beach I got too, near a very large rock pool. I then used the car as a transitory touching point, so I can walk from Bosherton tomorrow as a finale to this section of my walking the Wales coast path.
The Adventures of Alison 