Penarth to the edge of Barry

On the trail steps, 15,134 on the trail miles 6.33. Off the trail steps 5316, off the trail miles 2.

After some dithering over where to park the car, I finally found a suitable car park in Penarth – right near the coast path but a bit of a trek from a bus stop. It had toilets and a café too. I decided on wearing the old boots to give my feet time to get used to the new ones too. I set up a touching point by the café and the coast path and set off.

The initial stretch was lovely and very easy with many dog walkers! The sun was shining but it wasn’t particularly warm.  I moved onto a more conventional cliff path, and in places rather tacky after yesterday’s rain. The views were a bit obscured by overgrowth on the sea side of the path, but the views were great every time there was a gap.

It was a day of 3 detours round caravan parks and the first was named after Marconi as it was close to the spot where the first morse code message was transmitted. I passed a church dedicated to St Lawrence. I found a bench and had morning coffee, just after a section through a nature reserve. The second caravan park diversion was further inland, before leading down on the road to Swanbridge. This was territory I had covered once before on a circular walk from Cosmeston (another favourite Saturday afternoon spot with Jane and Jasper!).

After the 3^rd caravan park, I hit Sully recreation ground. I resisted the temptation to go and browse at the busy car boot sale! The path led between the houses and the rocky beach, and again was busy with families and dog walkers. After an uncomfortable stony section for about ½ a  mile, I found a bench and ate my lunch there in the sunshine.

I went a little further along the beach edge, before the coast path turned inland. I didn’t succumb to the temptation of seeing dinosaur footprint fossils further along the shore (though the new coast path walk book was very enthusiastic about them)! I headed inland past the inevitable chemical works and walked back to yesterday’s ending touching point at the bus stop by Macdonalds on the edge of Barry. I was lucky that I had a about a five minute wait to get the 94 bus back to Penarth as they are only 1 an hour on Sunday’s.

Unfortunately, I alighted the bus at Penarth station, but then had a 20 minute walk back to where the car was. The bus ride was long enough to have got a bit stiff! All in all a good day, rounded off with a rum and raison ice cream at the car park café before heading back to base camp!

Penarth to the edge of Cardiff (De Haviland Street bus stop near Pengam Green Tescos!)

On the trail steps 18302,  on the trail miles 7.88.  Off the trail steps 5342, off the trail miles 2.29.

After making some phone calls, I set off from the Penarth car park I had used yesterday. I would have the same problem of getting back from the bus stop but it was a fantastic place to start. I was in my new boots, having done some adjustments to the insoles and lacing arrangements! I touched in on yesterday’s touching point by the café, and headed in the opposite direction, gently down hill into Penarth. As I got to the sea front, I saw the Waverley setting off from the pier (which was to have some friends on it later that day!).

It soon became apparent I would have to ascend over Barrage Hill. There was an excellent view point at the top. It was a bit overcast at this point, but I soon took off the waterproof I had on as I ascended the hill! The path gently wound down to the beginning of the Cardiff bay barrage through housing of typical style in Penarth! The walk across the barrage was interesting, and again the terrain of many dog walkers and cyclists… I contemplated a Mothering Sunday boat trip at Cardiff bay from many years ago!

I stopped for coffee and a caramel chocolate brownie at the Norwegian church, before doing the ‘city’ leg of the walk. The Norwegian church was another stopping point on trips into Cardiff from theological college! The sun was out when I left the café and heading through much of the redeveloped part of central Cardiff past the Millenium Centre and the Senedd building. I was heading for County Hall, when I got rather caught up in a large building site. I eventually found my way to the Atlantic walk – but I was less than confident it was going to work out – with lots of building work going on (and for once an absence of coast path signs for reassurance!).

What followed was a charming section on the side of the canal – but it was very overgrown – and I saw baby coots and cygnets! This led into a section on roads in a very built up area. Just beyond Lidl, I stopped again at a picnic area and ate some lunch whilst contemplating what to do. The walk book was a bit sniffy about the next section (and it was longer than I knew I could do at that stage of the day), and I took a shorter detour (which it did  suggest). This took me through Splott, Tremorfa (and Tremorfa park). It was quite a contrast in style but one of the things I love about this walking stuff is the variation in what is on the trail. I stopped at a bus stop by the Pengam Green Tescos, where I established a touching point to pick up the trail.

I then did a rather satisfying bus ride back to Penarth. First a number 11 into the city centre, and then after a bit of confusion on to the bus station (which I couldn’t find initially – it had been vastly redeveloped since my last visit 20 years ago! This was a case of where memory was not helpful! I realised eventually it was in front of me looking very smart in its new splendour!).  Then a 92 back to Penarth station and a repeat of the 20 minute walk back to the car park. As the bus ride was about an hour (though I had walked a much more direct route!) all told I was very stiff on the way back to the car so it was slow going.

Day 14 June 22  – Bosherton, Stackpole Quay, Barafundle, Broad Haven and back to Bosherton

On the trail 11,259 steps   5.1miles

Off the trail 6,643 steps  3.1 miles

TOTAL 17,902 steps, 8.2 miles

Took the car beyond the army firing range to the National trust car park at Bosherton, for a final coast path walk! One I have done several times before, and particularly with Jane in the Autumn of 2013… nearly 10 years ago. I knew I was in for a real treat, and it began with the inland section to Stackpole Quay via the beautiful lily ponds (lilies out) and 8 arch bridge, followed by about a mile on a farm track over to Stackpole Quay. I paused for coffee and barabrith (very good!) in the National Trust café.

It was warm with a light breeze and really good walking conditions for the next part of the trail.  I set up a touching point (for days on the trail ahead) before a very civilised ascent up National Trust steps and over the headland to Barafundle, which is a really beautiful place – with the classic through the arch view, followed by a very civilised descent on sandy steps courtesy again of the National Trust. I walked across the beach and I had a rest on a rock in the shade before the ascent on to the headland beyond Barafundle. There were also lots of views of what is to come when I return to take up the trail in Pembrokeshire again at some point.

I walked a good way round the headland with views and craggy bits and could feel the breeze throughout which was a blessing! Eventually I made it to the other side and remembered that the path over to this headland was a bit weird – I came through on a small path through the bracken and in the end climbed down some rocks (not advised!) to get onto what I now know is called Broad Haven beach. I have visited this beach many times on the lily ponds walk but never known what it was actually called.

I found a spot to sit on the sand and have some lunch and just enjoy the beauty of the spot. It was not very peaceful as somewhere up on the headland there were some people strimming, and the army was firing on the range and there were other people around too (not as remote as some of my lunch spots). The final section was back past the shady side of the lily ponds and up to the car. I set up a touching point at the end for another day!

This has been a very good break in a comfortable base camp and making good progress on the trail. The weather has been pretty fabulous – one day wet, two days a bit hot, and the rest pretty perfect! Here are my final totals. On this trip I have completed 70 miles on the coast path, 24 off the trail, and 94 miles in total. And overall I have done 63 miles off the trail, and a staggering 433 miles of the Wales Coast path!

Day 12 June 20 – The Dale peninsula

On the trail 17,751 steps  8.1 miles

Off the trail 3,212 steps 1.6 miles

TOTAL 20,963 steps, 9.7 miles

I drove to Dale, and parked up. I have walked this part of the trail before (on a very cold day I recollect and probably about 12 years ago). It is also in my Ordnance Survey Pembrokeshire and Gower walk book. I decided to do the walk the opposite way round – with the more challenging side of the peninsula on the outward leg, and the easy section which mostly maintains height on the way back (with one long descent at the end). I found my touching point from my last visit to Dale, and decided to avail myself of the café at the end of the walk. Conditions were good, sunny, gentle breeze about 20 degrees! I found the conveniences and then set off!

 The initial section wound up to Dale fort on a minor road through trees. From there it began a steady run of open headland climbs, descending to the shore and back up again. There was a particularly nice section above Watwick Bay. I stopped at a convenient step by a disused walking gate. This was the first time I met a couple with Milly the dog! They helped too as they tried a route that look right but wasn’t so I didn’t go on to make that mistake.

In all there were 4 ups and downs on this side of the peninsula and the walking was splendid if a little sweaty. The final ascent came out to the cottages near the end of St Ann’s head. By this stage I was looking for somewhere to have lunch. Eventually I sat on a bench by a closed lighthouse café. This was a bit sad, and not the first closed café I have seen (Pembroke High Street had several). As I was eating, the couple with Milly passed me again, they had stopped on one of the beaches along the way for their lunch.

The path down the other side of the peninsula was as I had remembered it, and much easier than the outbound leg of this walk. The views were fabulous. The path varied from narrow and overgrown to a wide grassy track (which you could imagine Ross Poldark riding his horse along). I was particularly delighted with the views of Skokholm and Skomer Island and further along a clear sighting of the unmistakable shape of Grassholm island I had visited. Eventually the Hookies and the Dale airfield came back into the view from previous walks on this trip! I overtook Molly and her guardians again on this stretch as they had a rest before the final descent.

The final descent (not always my strength) was OK and I carefully managed a long stretch of uneven steps. Then I reconnected with my touching post this side of the peninsula, and walked back to the toilet and the café for another piece of their excellent coffee cake. I also saw another of those odd trail signs with the frog on it!

Day 13 June 21 West Angle Bay to Freshwater West

On the trail 10,182 steps    4.7 miles

Off the trail  steps 8,947 steps 4.1 miles

TOTAL  19,129 steps, 8.8 miles

Well. It started early so I could catch the Coastal Cruiser from Freshwater West back to West Angle Bay and then walk back. There was a great view of the beach from the bus stop, and I was looking forward to walking on it  later (and when the tide was out!)

On the bus were various other walkers and people going to Pembroke to go shopping. Gordon (the driver) warned the path was ‘challenging’ and I bore in mind his statement about 7 steep ups and downs ahead. No chance of availing myself of the café as it wasn’t open when we got to West Angle, but I did use the toilets and, touch my touching point set off!.

I had made a promise to myself after some challenging terrain from Moylgrove to Poppit Sands in 2021, that I would turn back if it got like that again!

Well, the first couple of miles were very pretty and gentle, with fine views over to the Dale peninsula I had walked yesterday. Conditions were good.

Then came the warning sign, which was rapidly followed by the first steep and rough down and up section, which was also very near the edge of the cliffs, which I negotiated carefully. This was much more difficult terrain than I had been doing yesterday. I did a second one but above the third one, which was very rough and unstable as well as very edgy, I decided this was really not for me. I had a coffee and turned back! There are times when the sensible choice is the best one, and I wasn’t enjoying the jeopardy at all.. I set up a touching point but I doubt I’ll be  back!

After I left the steep sections, it was a lovely walk back. I had enough time to have a leisurely lunch on West Angle beach, and a mint choc chip ice cream from the café. I talked to one of the other walkers from the bus  and we caught the bus together. I returned to Freshwater West. Gordon the driver dropped me at the far end of the beach, I set up a touching point back on the trail and I walked through the dunes, to below the cliffs at the far end of the beach. I was very glad on closer examination of the coastal path above me on the cliffs I had made the choice I had!. Walking on the beach got me level with the first 2 ups and downs at the other end of the walk (and probably means I only missed about 2 miles of the trail!)

The beach was absolutely fantastic and is the one used in the final Harry Potter films (and where Dobbies’ grave is!). I didn’t walk through the dunes to find that, but the beach and the dunes were clearly recognisable and it was a glorious afternoon for a long stretch on the beach. I walked to the edge of Gupton Burrows on the beach, but could see the edge of the firing range and the warning flags (and hear them using it!).

I returned to the car, and as I am going to have to wait for another occasion to do the walk round the edge of the range (when the army are not using it!!). I set up a rock touching point at the most distant point of the beach I got too, near a very large rock pool.  I then used the car as a transitory touching point, so I can walk from Bosherton tomorrow as a finale to this section of my walking the Wales coast path.

Day 10 June 18 – Rest day

Had a very leisurely start to the day. Tidied up abit, and wrote some mock post cards, which I then printed. Sad about the demise of the post card, but can see people communicate so rapidly these days that they have gone out of fashion! Anyway job done and a few emailed (as I don’t have all my address book following my pc issues just before this holiday. Hoping to rectify that when I get home!.)

Did some food preparation and shortly after that Rhiannon and Pero arrived and a good couple of hours of chat, lunch and a walk on the beach at Freshwater east followed. Following that I chilled and contemplated route planning for the next couple of days – which needs to include a return trip to Dale to finish off the bit I haven’t done yet (though I have walked it before on a very cold day!).

Day 11 June 19 Hundleton to Angle

On the trail 24,855 steps    11.5 miles

Off the trail 3,685 steps 1.7 miles

TOTAL 28540 steps, 13.2 miles

Drove to Angle, availed myself of the facilities by the beach and then returned to a car park in the village, near the bus stop. I caught the 9:29am bus back to Hundleton, with the same driver as on Saturday. It seemed a very long way back, but tried to stay undaunted by this. I walked back to the gate post which was Saturday’s touching point and I had hatched a cunning plan.

The real route was set to go around the outside edge of a power station and another enormous refinery. I decided I really couldn’t face yet another long walk around a perimeter fence, and had hatched an inland route. It started on the road I had got to on the coast path on Saturday. I didn’t deviate from this when the path skirted off to the right. It meant about 5 miles on a very minor road (only 3 cars passed me for the entire duration). This route went up and down several times and then climbed gradually up to a cross roads. From there Angle bay came into view and the power station/refinery were also very present throughout!.#

It started well, but unfortunately there was one of the low bits that got a bit marshy and there was an enormous number of very over friendly horse flies. It was quite a steep climb, so I couldn’t really do anything other than bat them off and discourage them with my walking poles. A lady with a jack Russell also helped me by knocking them off my trousers. She was the only person I saw walking on the road. As we got to the top of the hill, the horse flies diminished,  but it was a good 10 minutes of jeopardy. Sadly the lady with the dog had to go back the way we had come! I had taken the precaution of jungle formula on my legs and thicker trousers and I had too many layers on my top half to be accessible. I had suffered last year after a suspected horse fly bite. And they were nothing like as prevalent then as they were this morning!

I decided to wait to stop for coffee until I reached the shore at Angle bay, which turned out to be about 11:40. I found a concrete block to rest on and had a breather.

The walk around the bay was easy going (occasionally a bit overgrown) and consistently low, finishing with a lovely wooded bit on the edge of an estate near Angle. After a couple of false starts, I eventually found Ben Couzen’s bench for lunch via the very discrete toilet at this end of Angle. I contemplated what to do and decided to do a little more round the headland (mainly in case it turned out I had been bitten by a horse fly and would not be able to do any more if I reacted like I did last year). It was also ideal conditions and I felt I had enough in my legs to do it. It was a lovely section, looking across to the end of the Pembroke Estuary and finally came out of the end of it and back to the coast line looking across to Dale and beyond.

Stopped on a well placed bench for a breather and then in the café at the beach end of Angle for some rum and raison ice cream, after I had established a new touching point. Hope I will use if before the end of the trail (for now on Friday!).

Day 8 June 16 – Dale to Sandy Haven

On the trail 7.5 miles  (including my diversion!)

Off the trail 2.5 miles

TOTAL 21744 steps 10 miles

Up early to drive to Herbranston, and park by the beach in the free car park. I then had to walk up the hill to catch the Fflesci bus I booked yesterday to take me to Dale. I was there for 9am and the bus came about 9:20am!. On arrival in Dale, there was a convenient café, which served excellent coffee cake! I decided to do an extra bit to contribute to the Dale peninsula walk still to do. This turned out not to be the wisest choice.

I got to my touching post near Dale airfield, did a short section of the coast path, established a further touching point and back into Dale, which all took about an hour!

And then I started the walk for the day, which started with about ¾ of a mile on the road before reaching the Gann, and interesting section of marsh and stony beach and the first of the tidal crossings. It was only after this, that I realised I had made a tactical error because the car was on the other side of the second tidal crossing and that I wasn’t entirely sure of the tide times! Based on what I saw yesterday at Sandy Haven, I guessed I had a couple of hours before there would be a problem but not more than that! This was an unfortunate awakening and I wished I had cracked on with this walk rather than doing the extra bit in Dale!! (and if I missed the crossing point due to the tide it would add a further 2 and a half miles – the coast path walk book particularly did not recommend this!). I had also slightly misjudged the distances involved on this coastal section too! It being further than I had thought. All in all planning not the best!

So I had to keep the pace up on the initial stony beach section and a very overgrown section. It came down to a wall around a bay and I had a brief stop on the path at a bench (which was too high from the ground). I did another couple of miles (which turned out to be quite up and down) and energetic. At least the path was not so overgrown! Eventually I came to a point where there was a path off the coast path. I was now about half an hour from when I was not certain about the tide! This was not good for my nervous system.

I decided to take an inland route a path and the road for speed mainly (as I really didn’t want to do the extra 2 ½ miles if the crossing was underwater). I was also tired and had already done an average days steps. I knew I could do the distance on the road in about 30 minutes (where as the coast path would be slower). It was not ideal but I took the inland cut! Thankfully I arrived with more than enough time to cross the tidal crossing (via my touching point). I returned to the car and had my picnic (using my folding chair) over looking Sandy Haven beach (until it started to rain), before heading to base camp!

Day 9 June 17 Pembroke to Hundleton

On the trail 7,276 steps 3.33 miles

Off the trail 5,924 2.67 miles

TOTAL 13,200 steps, 6 miles

 I woke up to heavy rain and achy leg muscles after yesterday’s exertions. I dithered over what to do and eventually settled on driving to Pembroke and doing a circuit including the coast path to Hundleton and back again. Before starting I attempted unsuccessfully to buy postcards so got some envelopes and will improvise! I then had a coffee and some restorative barabrith before making my way back to my touching point from the trail from Pembroke Dock.

I started and it began with a choice of routes around Pembroke castle. There were lots of flags (hopefully marking the King’s official birthday), and I took the outer ring. Then up a side road and up a cut passed the church at Monkton (which was an abbey church due to historic monks!). I walked along the road for about a mile following the trail. I passed some folk keen to give me refreshments – which were really for people doing an ultra marathon! I proceeded to see many runners on the next part of the trail. I also worked out where I could get a bus back into Pembroke if I came back the same way from the far end of Monkton.

The coast past wound down to the edge of the pembroke river estuary (with flood poles) and then up into a series of field with views down to the river and across to the territory I had walked earlier (and particularly last Saturday’s refinery with the scary bridges!). The weather had perked up a bit and I encouraged all the passing runners I met! Eventually after a challenging stile, the path joined a road gently uphill and coming out near Hundleton. I stopped some runners going the wrong way at that point, as I established a touching point (including a running route orange ribbon), before turning off the path into Hundleton.

I was heading for the benches at the centre of the village for lunch, and was contemplating the bus timetable at the bus stop, when the Coastal cruiser stopped on the other side of the road. I had a discussion with the driver (who was eventually going to Pembroke) and hopped on board (as this seemed a good option to get a sense of where this bus goes) and how I might be able to use it. It was also a good option for my achy legs! An hour on the bus followed, which was helpful. The next bit of the trail is going to be challenging with the buses and the distances etc… There is yet another refinery and I may yet have to be creative with my route planning! Certainly don’t want a repeat of yesterday’s debacle!

Day 6  June 14th – Day off – boat trip to Grassholm from St Justinian’s nr St David’s

Had a leisurely start to the day and was glad I was finally going to get to go on 2022’s boat trip. Can’t say I wasn’t apprehensive about it too as I am not the greatest sailor! It was hot! So I was glad I wasn’t walking. I drove to St David’s and parked at oriel parc. I had a coffee and a cake (a gluten free carrot cake which was very tasty) before being a bit of a tourist in St David’s. No success on finding sun hats or suitable postcards.

I didn’t go in the cathedral as it was shut (and numerous groups of children were having picnics prior to leaver’s services). I went to see where Jane is in the cremated remains plot, and paused for a bit. There were some very impressive new beehives near by (I am sure she would approve!).

I walked back up in to town and then had a very leisurely lunch back in the oriel parc café. I made my way to St Justinian’s and had an ice cream, before proceeding to the embarkation point for the boat!

We left about 4:30pm on the blue shark and it was a super trip. Ideal conditions on the way out seeing Dolphins and on the way back some of the others saw a whale fin (needless to say I was looking in the wrong direction at the pivotal moment).

As we approached Grassholm the number of sea birds increased exponentially. Gannets, kittiwakes, razor bills, puffins, manx shearwaters and seals! The smell was overwhelming and as we held position and went round the island. It was quite choppy (and I didn’t feel particularly good). It was a sight to behold on a sunny evening.

One thing really struck me as we were heading out to Grassholm that I had walked all the coast path I could see for miles and miles and miles….

Day 7 June 15 Milford Haven to Sandy Haven

On the trail 2 steps 13,413 6.25 miles

Off the trail – steps 6219   2.84 miles

TOTAL 19382 steps, 9.09 miles

I tried to make an early start so I could walk before it got really hot. This was not entirely successful. I drove to Milford Haven and parked the car (and availed myself of some convenient conveniences!). I walked back to the touching point I had established by the war memorial on Saturday and then on to the bus stop (mostly on the trail) by Milford Haven tescos.

I proceeded unhelpfully to get on the wrong bus! It started ok going through Haven and Hubbeston, but when it started to go in the wrong direction completely I realised my error. I had said Herbranston to the driver but I thing he thought I had said Haverfordwest!. So I walked back again towards Milford Haven tescos. I decided to walk on from there and then catch the bus back where there was less potential for getting on the wrong bus!

Initially I walked through the streets of Haven, and it was a bit up and down and rather hot! I came down a cut to Gelliswick bay to encounter a large fox! I walked round the bay, and then onto a tarmac path round the first part of South Hook LNG terminal. There were many, many signs asking me to keep out and away and lots of imposing fences. Instead of a scary bridge over the pipes, I descended to a beach with many intimidating notices (especially about not lighting a barbecue!) to go under the pipes this time. I reascended up on to the low headland. It was no longer a tarmac path fence on one side (with notices!) and then hedges and overgrowth so not much in the way of views. I eventually stopped when it was low enough to peer over and had a coffee sitting on the path! (I saw no-one on this section of the path!)

After that it got more scenic, I did see some workers from the LNG terminal on a higher path to me (a hot day for wearing high vis and hard hats! There was even a sign to say I had finished the walk around the LNG terminal (in case I could not work this out!)

The path followed the low cliff edge and eventually went down to sea level. I succumbed to temptation and went on to Sandy Haven beach and did about a mile on the beach rather than more of an undulating low path. It was lovely, with a cooling breeze, and occasionally more hazy sunshine. I walked round to the river crossing to the next part of the trail (and was relieved to see a bridge rather than stepping stones). I crossed and established a touching point for another walk, before crossing back to a shady spot for lunch on a rock.

After a leisurely lunch watching passing horses and dog walkers, I went off the trail though the long way round if the bridge was inpassable) up to Herbranston. I had half an hour on a hot bench on the green, before the bus took me back to Milford Haven tescos. I walked round to the car park (the third time I had walked on that particular piece of road today) and reconnected with the convenient conveniences! Before coming back to base via a trip to Lidl!