Cwm Colhuw (Llantwit major beach!) to Monknash beach.
On the trail steps, 13,202* on the trail miles 6*. Off the trail steps 21,030, off the trail miles 8.6.
*Due to the lack of internet this is a bit of a guess!
Since my last blog, I had a rest day taking in Bridgend outlet centre, and a new frock for an upcoming event. Then a hot afternoon wander around the garden at Dyffryn (National trust and very close to base camp), which was a work in progress and a mass of Orchids!! Very hot – but good to give my legs a rest!
My final walking day started early, as hot weather was forecast. I set off and was at my parking space at Llantwit Major beach (where I finished the first walk with Gavin several days ago!) I set up the forgotten touching point, used the facilities and set off up the first ascent on to low cliffs. It was a beautiful day and a very well kept path as I snaked up and down on the low cliffs – A short stretch on a stony beach after the 2nd descent and then some very welcome shade in the woods around the Atlantic College at St Donat’s. I had a brief hot coffee on the beach there!
And then onward – up out of the woods into grassy fields with the Nash lighthouse getting closer and closer. It was a lovely and relatively easy stroll at this point if a little hot! I walked through the somewhat deserted cottages and past the lighthouse, and stopped for a second breather just beyond the car park.
I did a big up and down to get to a more deserted stretch next to a field that the farmer was cutting (for silage I guess!). I kept seeing a couple who seemed to be using a bird identifying app as they went. I stopped for a third stop by a stone stile and kissing gate. I knocked over my second coffee which was annoying, but I did get half of it. At this point the view was stretching out ahead for walks to come (as this is my final day on this trip!). It was getting hotter than I could deal with, so at the next opportunity after a tricky descent down to Monknash’s beach, I set up a touching point on another stone stile and then after due consideration I took an inland path.
I had had no internet signal for most of the day, so wasn’t able to work out if the buses back to Llantwit would work well or not! The initial section was rather in the stream and then the path turned out to be a rocky track gently up onto the headland in woods, with a lovely stream and the remains of some kind of mill/industrial building. I was on the Valeways millennium heritage trail and found a car park at Mill Farm I may be able to use in the future and just beyond a pub the bus stop. Miraculously a 303 was due in 10 minutes. It actually arrived after 16 causing difficulties on quite a narrow road.
In Llantwit it dropped me off at the train/bus station and in the heat I walked to the local spa and got an ice cream and a cold drink!. I then had a hot half an hour winding back to the beach (including some very unwelcome ascent!). The final section included a sharp descent, a footbridge over the stream, and then about half a mile of all weather accessible path down to the beach car park.
I found an unconventional sheltered shady spot for lunch and had a drink in the café (which was open this time) before heading back! The car was hot, hot, hot – settling after about 10 minutes on 29 degrees!
A fantastic walk – classic coastal path stuff and a great way to end this stretch of Wales coast path walking. Chepstow to Monknash Beach….
That’s 75.6 miles on the trail, and 29.6 miles off – total walked 105.2 miles
On the trail steps, 15,098 on the trail miles 6.5. Off the trail steps 3076, off the trail miles 1.3.
I drove back to the Goldcliff sea wall parking place, and set off on the embankment after reconnecting with my touching place from Saturday.
All was well on the embankment to begin with and progress was good. A combination of things made life a little more difficult. First of all there was a small holding with a very affectionate horse – who made access difficult as it was less than a foot from the kissing gate and then followed me albeit at a better distance to the kissing gate on the other side. Second it got increasingly overgrown. I have known for some years that they do mow aspects of the path, but this needed doing and the cuttings from last time were adding to the difficulty. This is clearly not the most used part of the path! Other sections had not been maintained and needed it! This made it very slow going for about 3 of the 5 miles on the embankment. The view was encouraging and I had a couple of coffee stops on steps down to the estuary side of the embankment.
It was nice to see the Prince of Wales bridge getting nearer and nearer! I saw 2 walkers and a tractor the entire way! Rather remote!
It was also important not to overshoot on the embankment and get into a firing range. This was slightly tricky as I was on a section where I didn’t have the map on my phone (being off the edge of the Newport map and not quite on the Wye valley map I did eventually find the spot to turn off inland – but no where comfortable for lunch. So I took the inland cut – which joined the cycle path. After another hot mile in the heat of the day I crossed the M4 on a road bridge – I took a detour into Rogiet country park and found a very suitable and much needed lunch bench.
It was then another mile to Caldicot station and a short wait for the hourly train service back to Newport.
On arrival in Newport station, I ordered another Veezu taxi. Pick up was a bit more tricky and I got in the wrong place apparently (how was I to know!). The driver took me to the sea wall at Goldcliff and he was very taken with it! He was still there taking in the view when I left to drive home.
Caldicot to Chepstow
On the trail steps, 23,488 on the trail miles 10.11. Off the trail steps 4813, off the trail miles 2.
I started out early so I could get parked up in Chepstow and on the 9:21 train to Caldicot. Alas no room in my first choice of car park, so I missed the train. The car park I used (Castle Dell) turned out to be very fortuitous at the end of the day but I didn’t know that then. Using the Newport bus app, I walked uphill until I found the bus station and got a bus (X74) back to Caldicot which was a quicker option than waiting for the next train.
I walked from the bus stop to my touching point and set off! It was another ½ a mile on the cycle track and a footbridge over the M4 followed by several miles back on the embankment next to the estuary. This time I crossed under the Prince of Wales bridge – which was really quite cool!!
I stopped for a coffee in an iron age fort at Sudbrook, and a suitable bench looking across to the Prince of Wales bridge. I then carried on for about 4 miles of embankment walking with a short breather at the black rocks viewing point. This time the M48 bridge was getting closer in front, and the Prince of Wales bridge getting further away behind! As I started the trek back inland and over the railway I got back on the map on my phone – this time the Wye Valley one. This helped as the route involved crossing various fields and was not always very clear! I had a shady lunch on a warm day in Mathern Church yard.
After this it was a hot and long stroll back to Chepstow. There were contours which are days of walking on a flat embankment was a bit of a shock. There were even 2 stiles (one at a leaning angle) to contend with. I went a bit wrong in the field section, and then up to an industrial estate and park, and then down to go under the M48 in a decorated tunnel. The up into a wooded section, steeply down and then equally steeply back further up into a housing estate! Then another long wooded section and eventually out through the port wall and down into the town.
I was very tired by this point but determined to keep going as the finishing point was the end of the trail marker (Not the end for me as I still have more to do!). I also saw the start of the offa’s dyke trail!
I finally got there and had a chocolate ice-cream and a coke zero sitting on the Wales Coast path bench! I also took some photos of some seals (which could be a treat for another day). A short stroll back to the car was much appreciated at this point as I had walked the furthest I have done on this holiday and was rather tired and also pretty hot!
On the trail steps, 12,600 on the trail miles 5.40. Off the trail steps 5231, off the trail miles 1.93.
Tried to pick an interesting walk as Athene was joining me (and this one was recommended as a highlight!). After a bit of faffing about, and a quick look inside Redwick church, I met up with Athene and we got the cars in strategically a good start and end point (as this is an area with no buses!) It was great to see Athene, and we started in a very civilised way with coffee and a welsh cake, and a comfort stop before kicking off on the coast path around the wetlands, once a touching point had been established.
There were quite a lot of benches and people, and occasional sightings of birds and lots of orchids! We also saw the sister of the lighthouse I had seen yesterday – the thinner and less squat East Usk light house! It was good to catch up and chat as we talked, and after numerous benches the need for a coffee stop came after we had just left the grounds of the wetland centre. It took ages to find a not very scenic or comfortable spot by a lane (so we didn’t linger!)
Then we walked around the salt marsh – where we not were allowed to walk on the embankment so as not to disturb the nesting birds, so the view of anything was extremely limited, and then across fields (which was increasingly getting rather overgrown!). The meadow sections were rather pretty (and we did see a marsh harrier though no red beaks (oyster catchers) – though I have seen them several times on the trail.
We eventually resorted to lunch in a bird hide (as at least there was a seat!) we were joined by a couple of birders but not much to be seen! Post lunch we soon wound down to the car by the sea wall and took a quick walk up to see the sea and establish a start point for when I pick up the trail again in this place.
We drove the second car back to the RSPB place, and had another drink and comfort stop before going our separate ways. Next stop with Athene is centre court at Wimbledon (so excited!!!)
Two gaps
On the trail steps, 16843 on the trail miles 7.26. Off the trail steps 9497, off the trail miles 3.4.
I did 2 distinct sections of walk to join up all the trail that I have done. First from the wetlands back into Newport – which turned out to be rather overgrown in places and clearly not the most walked bit of the Wales coast path. I started from the wetland centre – but was so early that the café and toilets were not open!! I found my touching point and set off.
Due to the overgrown nature of the paths, there was quite a bit of checking I was on the right path. There were several fields with sheep and cows including some young ones (who were a bit frisky!). I saw absolutely no-one on the first part of the walk. Navigation and the going got a lot easier when the path joined a cycle path as we got closer to Newport (and landed in the inevitable industrial estate). I was soon back next to the A48 and over the road bridge to my touching point. There were again excellent views of the not functioning transporter bridge.
I crossed the road, and availed myself of the convenient costa coffee I had seen on my previous visit. I then hailed my first ever App based taxi service (Veezu in Newport!). This worked amazingly well and they ran me back to the RSPB place (as there are no bus options).
I drove a rather eccentric route back, finding somewhere to eat my lunch, and then went down to Rhoose to pick up Gavin for the second gap walk from Rhoose into Barry!
This turned out to be a much better path with no overgrown bits and much more up and down! We went back to the most southerly point of Wales touching point, and set off! Again lively conversation was had, as we headed towards Porthkerry through the inevitable caravan park, and down through the trees – some ancient ones!.
We stopped for a breather and a drink in Porthkerry park, and then a stiff ascent up and then over into Barry. The ascent began with steps and a false summit, it eventually levelled out with a wide expanse of green, and posh houses with a fantastic view! We had to work over to the coast path a bit for the steep descent (without steps). We had a brief pause at the Roman remains on display at the bottom of the hill. Then a bit of a canter along a short promenade. before catching a short cut across the beach to connect with a path and a bit beyond my original touching point from last Saturday.
We headed to Zio’s and met Alison and had excellent icecream. Later Gavin and Alison came over to base camp for supper.
On the trail steps, 16,565 on the trail miles 7.12. Off the trail steps, 2,641 off the trail miles 1.13.
Had a more leisurely morning, caught up with the blog and sorted some stuff out. Then headed off to Rhoose to see Gavin and Alison, as Gavin was going to walk with me for the day.
After a coffee and a catch up, we set off from Rhoose establishing a very scenic touching point at the gap – to be picked up later to complete the section back to Barry. This was close to the most southerly point of Wales. The walk had wide expansive views of the Bristol channel and the shipping, and was more classic low cliff walking. We were making steady progress into the breeze. There was lots to see including geological formations, fossils and a rocky shore line. Much conversation was had.
We had a breather on a log when we descended down to a path by the sea wall after the lengthy stretch next to Fontgarry Caravan park! We were chased by the man on a ride-on mower for most of that too! As we continued we saw the cement works and the power station and outer workings of it. It was fun to see some antitank defences which had been painted, including an impressive rubics cube!
We had lunch just beyond the Aberthaw power station on an uncomfortable bench in the car park. This seemed to be a favourite amongst dog walkers. A very chatty chap told about the latest ‘urban thrill experience’ was to break in and explore the derelict power station (we had seen holes in the perimeter fence!). Not my idea of fun! We continued to walk at a low level, which was very reminiscent of Suffolk beyond Sizewell. It was a bit rough and ready (and actually we should have gone in land!)
It was at this point we saw the first sign indicating a path closure. It was not at all clear so we carried on! We eventually reached a barrier not across the path (and I sent Gavin ahead). There was one bit of path in need of attention but it was passable with care! It was all abit overgrown – and we came out by the second barrier (also not barring the path) by the seawatch centre. We were intrigued by an accommodation block at Hafod.
After this we had about 3km to go – and we managed a cliff edge path in some huge fields. There was a down and up section, and finally we wound down into Llantwit beach. I was so pleased to see our lift (Alison) – that I forgot to establish a touching point! Oops. Back to Rhoose for a lovely supper and more catch up too!
De haviland Road, Pengam green to Lighthouse park
On the trail steps, 18,208 on the trail miles 7.84. Off the trail steps 6,681, off the trail miles 2.86.
Unfortunately when I had got home last night I found I had a blister – so compeed (other brands exist) to the rescue and back in the old boots for today’s walk. Made my way back to Pengam green, and found somewhere sensible to park (about ½ mile from the touching point in De haviland road. When I get the bus back I will connect the gap, but for now touched the car as an interim starting point. The initial stretch was complicated by roadworks and a special walking lane at a roundabout and about ½ a mile next to a busy road. It ducked off into a park with a large pond (but you could still hear the traffic). It then struck out towards the coast, coming out near an embankment – which I walked on for much of the rest of the walk. I had an initial coffee stop sitting on a green storage box.
Initially I saw only 1 person on a very isolated spot walking alongside the estuary. It got increasingly humid and I dodged some cows, there was some interesting birds too. I stopped for a breather at the first get off point – near Peterstone church, sitting part way down the embankment. I didn’t linger as it was a bit hot and uncomfortable! The view was very constant – large estuary, with a varying amount of shore (and rural land put to various uses on the other side and some marshy stuff too)!
I stopped further along just beyond Peterstone Gout by the emerging sea wall. At this point people became more prevalent. Another possible exit point emerged and I realised that the bus stopped near the coast at Lighthouse park. I was getting hot and sweaty in the prevailing conditions, and I knew it would be too far to walk the final bit into Newport from where I was. So I established a touching point here, and cut inland to a closed pub/café and ate my lunch at a picnic bench next to a Roman Soldier sculpture and then took the 31A back to Newport. We went on a diverted route including the M4. Lighthouse park turned out to be a static caravan complex!
I wandered into the shopping centre to find a toilet, and then got the bus back to Cardiff (X30). Then a short walk to a number 11 bus stop in the centre of Cardiff and a half hour wait to get the 3rd bus of the day back to Pengam green. I walked to the De haviland road bus stop – touched the touching point and did the extra half a mile back to where I had parked the car.
Lighthouse park to A48 road bridge in Newport
On the trail steps, 12,634 on the trail miles 5.41. Off the trail steps 53147, off the trail miles 2.29.
After a rest day (with a lot of driving but that’s a story for another day) – the blister was still on going so another day in the old boots ahead and with compeed protecting my left foot! I drove back to the Lighthouse park, on the way passing the six bells – another very closed hostelry – which was described in the guide book as a going concern, but it has been tough times. The local community were trying to save that one!
I set off via yesterday’s touching point, and walked to the West Usk Lighthouse on the embankment – with birds, cows, horses etc!. The lighthouse was quite charming but very squat as lighthouse’s generally go. There was lots of accommodation around it – but the path diverted onto a track around it with some very unfriendly notices! I missed the initial link to the coast path by crossing a cattle grid carefully, and then had to come back across. One more final stretch of embankment before the path turned inland and into a farm track. I saw one person in this whole stretch, along with horses, cows and sheep!
The track wound inland and up and over the railway before emerging onto a road. I was pretty desperate for a good coffee stop but without much success. A short stretch on an overgrown path followed, and then a rather desolate bit with lots of rubbish and school boys near a high school. It came out by a rugby club and eventually I found a bench in a children’s play ground after going under a main road in a tunnel and back over the railway line.
What followed then was an urban stretch through 2 out of town shopping areas, and a more pleasant residential area working around to the A48 and to the very closed Transporter bridge. It remained a very impressive sight and had a smart visitor centre – I wonder what has happened there?
It was again warm and sticky and walking next to a dual carriage way on a main road is not my favourite! I stopped and established a touching point by the Old Dock reach – and walked back into Newport for a mile, to pick up the 31A bus back to Lighthouse park from the bus station. This went a very convoluted route back (and took 50 minutes!).
I liked the Coronation balls I saw as I walked to the bus station! I attended to some necessary shopping for food and blog writing when I got back to base camp!
On the trail steps, 15,134 on the trail miles 6.33. Off the trail steps 5316, off the trail miles 2.
After some dithering over where to park the car, I finally found a suitable car park in Penarth – right near the coast path but a bit of a trek from a bus stop. It had toilets and a café too. I decided on wearing the old boots to give my feet time to get used to the new ones too. I set up a touching point by the café and the coast path and set off.
The initial stretch was lovely and very easy with many dog walkers! The sun was shining but it wasn’t particularly warm. I moved onto a more conventional cliff path, and in places rather tacky after yesterday’s rain. The views were a bit obscured by overgrowth on the sea side of the path, but the views were great every time there was a gap.
It was a day of 3 detours round caravan parks and the first was named after Marconi as it was close to the spot where the first morse code message was transmitted. I passed a church dedicated to St Lawrence. I found a bench and had morning coffee, just after a section through a nature reserve. The second caravan park diversion was further inland, before leading down on the road to Swanbridge. This was territory I had covered once before on a circular walk from Cosmeston (another favourite Saturday afternoon spot with Jane and Jasper!).
After the 3rd caravan park, I hit Sully recreation ground. I resisted the temptation to go and browse at the busy car boot sale! The path led between the houses and the rocky beach, and again was busy with families and dog walkers. After an uncomfortable stony section for about ½ a mile, I found a bench and ate my lunch there in the sunshine.
I went a little further along the beach edge, before the coast path turned inland. I didn’t succumb to the temptation of seeing dinosaur footprint fossils further along the shore (though the new coast path walk book was very enthusiastic about them)! I headed inland past the inevitable chemical works and walked back to yesterday’s ending touching point at the bus stop by Macdonalds on the edge of Barry. I was lucky that I had a about a five minute wait to get the 94 bus back to Penarth as they are only 1 an hour on Sunday’s.
Unfortunately, I alighted the bus at Penarth station, but then had a 20 minute walk back to where the car was. The bus ride was long enough to have got a bit stiff! All in all a good day, rounded off with a rum and raison ice cream at the car park café before heading back to base camp!
Penarth to the edge of Cardiff (De Haviland Street bus stop near Pengam Green Tescos!)
On the trail steps 18302, on the trail miles 7.88. Off the trail steps 5342, off the trail miles 2.29.
After making some phone calls, I set off from the Penarth car park I had used yesterday. I would have the same problem of getting back from the bus stop but it was a fantastic place to start. I was in my new boots, having done some adjustments to the insoles and lacing arrangements! I touched in on yesterday’s touching point by the café, and headed in the opposite direction, gently down hill into Penarth. As I got to the sea front, I saw the Waverley setting off from the pier (which was to have some friends on it later that day!).
It soon became apparent I would have to ascend over Barrage Hill. There was an excellent view point at the top. It was a bit overcast at this point, but I soon took off the waterproof I had on as I ascended the hill! The path gently wound down to the beginning of the Cardiff bay barrage through housing of typical style in Penarth! The walk across the barrage was interesting, and again the terrain of many dog walkers and cyclists… I contemplated a Mothering Sunday boat trip at Cardiff bay from many years ago!
I stopped for coffee and a caramel chocolate brownie at the Norwegian church, before doing the ‘city’ leg of the walk. The Norwegian church was another stopping point on trips into Cardiff from theological college! The sun was out when I left the café and heading through much of the redeveloped part of central Cardiff past the Millenium Centre and the Senedd building. I was heading for County Hall, when I got rather caught up in a large building site. I eventually found my way to the Atlantic walk – but I was less than confident it was going to work out – with lots of building work going on (and for once an absence of coast path signs for reassurance!).
What followed was a charming section on the side of the canal – but it was very overgrown – and I saw baby coots and cygnets! This led into a section on roads in a very built up area. Just beyond Lidl, I stopped again at a picnic area and ate some lunch whilst contemplating what to do. The walk book was a bit sniffy about the next section (and it was longer than I knew I could do at that stage of the day), and I took a shorter detour (which it did suggest). This took me through Splott, Tremorfa (and Tremorfa park). It was quite a contrast in style but one of the things I love about this walking stuff is the variation in what is on the trail. I stopped at a bus stop by the Pengam Green Tescos, where I established a touching point to pick up the trail.
I then did a rather satisfying bus ride back to Penarth. First a number 11 into the city centre, and then after a bit of confusion on to the bus station (which I couldn’t find initially – it had been vastly redeveloped since my last visit 20 years ago! This was a case of where memory was not helpful! I realised eventually it was in front of me looking very smart in its new splendour!). Then a 92 back to Penarth station and a repeat of the 20 minute walk back to the car park. As the bus ride was about an hour (though I had walked a much more direct route!) all told I was very stiff on the way back to the car so it was slow going.
Steps on the trail 13,377 Miles on the trail 5.73 – Steps off the trail 4298 Miles off the trail 1.78
Good to be back on the trail after a gap year in 2024! Alot has happened since I last attempted the coast path, and much to ponder as I set off today. Yesterday I established base camp for a 2 week foray into the South Wales part of the path. Some of this is very familiar territory after my time in Llandaff at Theological College. Though this now feels a long time ago! Happy memories of Jane and Jasper came to the fore via starting in Barry Island (about 8 miles from base camp). This was very apt and is now looking a little more affluent trading on the Gavin and Stacey connection. Back in the day, Barry Island was a regular Saturday afternoon walk spot (as an escape) though usually in better weather than today. It was cool and intermittently rainy!!
I parked in the big beach car park, and heading off on the trail, establishing a touching point at the start and where I finished today. I used the first coastal path sigh I saw, in very fetching red livery. The first part of the path was very familiar and I contended with drizzly rain, as well as being overtaken by very hardy runners on a long distance run! I saw a refreshment stop for them further on. Signage for path was plentiful including rather impressive tiles on the pathway
It was me and the dog walkers initially! I stopped for a coffee once I had gone past the beach and the headland and round through some housing. The rain thankfully eased off at this point. Lots of varied housing including a large more modern harbour side development.
What then followed was a lengthy section by the side of main roads, as we skirted round the docks and then on to a chemical works. I did spot an orchid in an unlikely place on the first section. I was becoming aware of potential boot issues (I was wearing a new pair I haven’t got fully accustomed too!) and need some adjusting/wearing in. In order to prevent blisters, I stopped about a mile before I had really intended too. I set up a touching point by the bus stop and got a 95 back to within a 10 minute walk of the car. The bus did a long route around the outskirts of Barry first, so by the time I got off I was rather stiff.
I moved the car to a more scenic spot in the car park and ate my lunch in the car (as the rain was falling hard by this point once again!)! A good start
A short drive over the hill to Borth from base camp, and I parked in the road just above where I had caught the bus. It was overcast and sufficiently cool to warrant a woolly hat and gloves. As I looked to the hills and towards Aberdyfi I could see bright blue sky so I hoped that I would walk into the sunshine!
I availed myself of the conveniences, and found my touching board from Wednesday and set off! It was a walk through Borth, which was quite interesting and in places very colourful with artwork and a selection of dragons! It then cut out on the promenade. I was presented with an interesting dilemma of needing to choose between the Wales Coast path and the Ceredigion one. Decided on the latter, which takes me right to end of the coast here (less than a mile and a swim from Aberdyfi!) rather than a long inland loop to Machynlleth – which I am unlikely to be able to finish on this trip).
I was directed off the promenade and across the golf course, to a section on over grassy (and wet paths) through a reed bed and along the side of the Alon leri. This was long and heavy going as the grass was too long and a bit slippery and wet under foot. I eventually came out by a foot bridge along side the railway and over the Alon Leri.
I was in need of a coffee stop but I carried on after a section on road and a bridle way through to a nature reserve. Here I found a rock to sit on and took in a much needed coffee. The weather was definitely perking up and I seemed to have picked my time well as the tide was well out. I walked around the dunes to as close as I could to Aberdyfi (without getting in sinky sand!) and marked that as the end of the on the trail section.
I had a lovely walk back along a long stretch of sandy beach, seeing the occasional dog walker, lots of groynes and sea defences, the remnants of an ancient forest at the waters edge. I climbed back up on the promenade at Borth to have some lunch! It was at this point I was asked a couple of times to do a questionnaire by some teenagers on a geography field trip.
I did the final mile back to the car feeling rather stiff even though it had all been very flat! as I realised the distance I had covered in total was just over 10 miles!
Final running total for this few days!
On the trail 15.5 miles, off the trail 8.1 Total 23.6
Day 1 and 2 October 9th and 10th – Clarach Bay to Aberystwyth and Clarach Bay to Borth
On the trail 8,918 steps 4.1 miles 12,576 steps 5.8 miles
Off the trail 5,186 steps 2.3 miles 1071 steps 0.8 miles
TOTAL 14,104 steps, 6.4 miles 14,666 steps 6.6 miles
A couple of good days on both walking from a touching point I set up on a rock at the far end of the static chalet and caravan park where I am staying at Clarach Bay (and on the coast path obviously!). Filling in a gap caused by Storm Ali in 2018 and generally recharging my batteries after a very eventful patch!
The first walk climbed up constitution hill, and I was rewarded with fabulous views over Aberystwyth. A slow steep descent followed! I then walked the promenade and round the harbour for another couple of miles. Weather ideal for walking!
And lots of dragons!
Eventually I walked back into town, and picked up a taxi back to Clarach bay (very decadent!).
The second walk was a good deal more strenuous and took me on a very uppy downy path to Borth. It was classic coastal walking and another good day for walking though windier. I didn’t cover the ground very fast but concluded better to be safe than sorry!
It was a great day for fungi!
I established a touching point in Borth, and got the bus back to Aberystwyth and then another decadent taxi to Clarach bay.
The weather forecast probably precludes much progress tomorrow, which looks like it is going to berather wet!!! Maybe a good day for catching up a novel or knitting!
Day 14 June 22 – Bosherton, Stackpole Quay, Barafundle, Broad Haven and back to Bosherton
On the trail 11,259 steps 5.1miles
Off the trail 6,643 steps 3.1 miles
TOTAL 17,902 steps, 8.2 miles
Took the car beyond the army firing range to the National trust car park at Bosherton, for a final coast path walk! One I have done several times before, and particularly with Jane in the Autumn of 2013… nearly 10 years ago. I knew I was in for a real treat, and it began with the inland section to Stackpole Quay via the beautiful lily ponds (lilies out) and 8 arch bridge, followed by about a mile on a farm track over to Stackpole Quay. I paused for coffee and barabrith (very good!) in the National Trust café.
It was warm with a light breeze and really good walking conditions for the next part of the trail. I set up a touching point (for days on the trail ahead) before a very civilised ascent up National Trust steps and over the headland to Barafundle, which is a really beautiful place – with the classic through the arch view, followed by a very civilised descent on sandy steps courtesy again of the National Trust. I walked across the beach and I had a rest on a rock in the shade before the ascent on to the headland beyond Barafundle. There were also lots of views of what is to come when I return to take up the trail in Pembrokeshire again at some point.
I walked a good way round the headland with views and craggy bits and could feel the breeze throughout which was a blessing! Eventually I made it to the other side and remembered that the path over to this headland was a bit weird – I came through on a small path through the bracken and in the end climbed down some rocks (not advised!) to get onto what I now know is called Broad Haven beach. I have visited this beach many times on the lily ponds walk but never known what it was actually called.
I found a spot to sit on the sand and have some lunch and just enjoy the beauty of the spot. It was not very peaceful as somewhere up on the headland there were some people strimming, and the army was firing on the range and there were other people around too (not as remote as some of my lunch spots). The final section was back past the shady side of the lily ponds and up to the car. I set up a touching point at the end for another day!
This has been a very good break in a comfortable base camp and making good progress on the trail. The weather has been pretty fabulous – one day wet, two days a bit hot, and the rest pretty perfect! Here are my final totals. On this trip I have completed 70 miles on the coast path, 24 off the trail, and 94 miles in total. And overall I have done 63 miles off the trail, and a staggering 433 miles of the Wales Coast path!
I drove to Dale, and parked up. I have walked this part of the trail before (on a very cold day I recollect and probably about 12 years ago). It is also in my Ordnance Survey Pembrokeshire and Gower walk book. I decided to do the walk the opposite way round – with the more challenging side of the peninsula on the outward leg, and the easy section which mostly maintains height on the way back (with one long descent at the end). I found my touching point from my last visit to Dale, and decided to avail myself of the café at the end of the walk. Conditions were good, sunny, gentle breeze about 20 degrees! I found the conveniences and then set off!
The initial section wound up to Dale fort on a minor road through trees. From there it began a steady run of open headland climbs, descending to the shore and back up again. There was a particularly nice section above Watwick Bay. I stopped at a convenient step by a disused walking gate. This was the first time I met a couple with Milly the dog! They helped too as they tried a route that look right but wasn’t so I didn’t go on to make that mistake.
In all there were 4 ups and downs on this side of the peninsula and the walking was splendid if a little sweaty. The final ascent came out to the cottages near the end of St Ann’s head. By this stage I was looking for somewhere to have lunch. Eventually I sat on a bench by a closed lighthouse café. This was a bit sad, and not the first closed café I have seen (Pembroke High Street had several). As I was eating, the couple with Milly passed me again, they had stopped on one of the beaches along the way for their lunch.
The path down the other side of the peninsula was as I had remembered it, and much easier than the outbound leg of this walk. The views were fabulous. The path varied from narrow and overgrown to a wide grassy track (which you could imagine Ross Poldark riding his horse along). I was particularly delighted with the views of Skokholm and Skomer Island and further along a clear sighting of the unmistakable shape of Grassholm island I had visited. Eventually the Hookies and the Dale airfield came back into the view from previous walks on this trip! I overtook Molly and her guardians again on this stretch as they had a rest before the final descent.
The final descent (not always my strength) was OK and I carefully managed a long stretch of uneven steps. Then I reconnected with my touching post this side of the peninsula, and walked back to the toilet and the café for another piece of their excellent coffee cake. I also saw another of those odd trail signs with the frog on it!
Day 13 June 21 West Angle Bay to Freshwater West
On the trail 10,182 steps 4.7 miles
Off the trail steps 8,947 steps 4.1 miles
TOTAL 19,129 steps, 8.8 miles
Well. It started early so I could catch the Coastal Cruiser from Freshwater West back to West Angle Bay and then walk back. There was a great view of the beach from the bus stop, and I was looking forward to walking on it later (and when the tide was out!)
On the bus were various other walkers and people going to Pembroke to go shopping. Gordon (the driver) warned the path was ‘challenging’ and I bore in mind his statement about 7 steep ups and downs ahead. No chance of availing myself of the café as it wasn’t open when we got to West Angle, but I did use the toilets and, touch my touching point set off!.
I had made a promise to myself after some challenging terrain from Moylgrove to Poppit Sands in 2021, that I would turn back if it got like that again!
Well, the first couple of miles were very pretty and gentle, with fine views over to the Dale peninsula I had walked yesterday. Conditions were good.
Then came the warning sign, which was rapidly followed by the first steep and rough down and up section, which was also very near the edge of the cliffs, which I negotiated carefully. This was much more difficult terrain than I had been doing yesterday. I did a second one but above the third one, which was very rough and unstable as well as very edgy, I decided this was really not for me. I had a coffee and turned back! There are times when the sensible choice is the best one, and I wasn’t enjoying the jeopardy at all.. I set up a touching point but I doubt I’ll be back!
After I left the steep sections, it was a lovely walk back. I had enough time to have a leisurely lunch on West Angle beach, and a mint choc chip ice cream from the café. I talked to one of the other walkers from the bus and we caught the bus together. I returned to Freshwater West. Gordon the driver dropped me at the far end of the beach, I set up a touching point back on the trail and I walked through the dunes, to below the cliffs at the far end of the beach. I was very glad on closer examination of the coastal path above me on the cliffs I had made the choice I had!. Walking on the beach got me level with the first 2 ups and downs at the other end of the walk (and probably means I only missed about 2 miles of the trail!)
The beach was absolutely fantastic and is the one used in the final Harry Potter films (and where Dobbies’ grave is!). I didn’t walk through the dunes to find that, but the beach and the dunes were clearly recognisable and it was a glorious afternoon for a long stretch on the beach. I walked to the edge of Gupton Burrows on the beach, but could see the edge of the firing range and the warning flags (and hear them using it!).
I returned to the car, and as I am going to have to wait for another occasion to do the walk round the edge of the range (when the army are not using it!!). I set up a rock touching point at the most distant point of the beach I got too, near a very large rock pool. I then used the car as a transitory touching point, so I can walk from Bosherton tomorrow as a finale to this section of my walking the Wales coast path.
The Adventures of Alison 