Rest and a cunning plan

Day 10 June 18 – Rest day

Had a very leisurely start to the day. Tidied up abit, and wrote some mock post cards, which I then printed. Sad about the demise of the post card, but can see people communicate so rapidly these days that they have gone out of fashion! Anyway job done and a few emailed (as I don’t have all my address book following my pc issues just before this holiday. Hoping to rectify that when I get home!.)

Did some food preparation and shortly after that Rhiannon and Pero arrived and a good couple of hours of chat, lunch and a walk on the beach at Freshwater east followed. Following that I chilled and contemplated route planning for the next couple of days – which needs to include a return trip to Dale to finish off the bit I haven’t done yet (though I have walked it before on a very cold day!).

Day 11 June 19 Hundleton to Angle

On the trail 24,855 steps 11.5 miles

Off the trail 3,685 steps 1.7 miles

TOTAL 28540 steps, 13.2 miles

Drove to Angle, availed myself of the facilities by the beach and then returned to a car park in the village, near the bus stop. I caught the 9:29am bus back to Hundleton, with the same driver as on Saturday. It seemed a very long way back, but tried to stay undaunted by this. I walked back to the gate post which was Saturday’s touching point and I had hatched a cunning plan.

The real route was set to go around the outside edge of a power station and another enormous refinery. I decided I really couldn’t face yet another long walk around a perimeter fence, and had hatched an inland route. It started on the road I had got to on the coast path on Saturday. I didn’t deviate from this when the path skirted off to the right. It meant about 5 miles on a very minor road (only 3 cars passed me for the entire duration). This route went up and down several times and then climbed gradually up to a cross roads. From there Angle bay came into view and the power station/refinery were also very present throughout!.#

It started well, but unfortunately there was one of the low bits that got a bit marshy and there was an enormous number of very over friendly horse flies. It was quite a steep climb, so I couldn’t really do anything other than bat them off and discourage them with my walking poles. A lady with a jack Russell also helped me by knocking them off my trousers. She was the only person I saw walking on the road. As we got to the top of the hill, the horse flies diminished, but it was a good 10 minutes of jeopardy. Sadly the lady with the dog had to go back the way we had come! I had taken the precaution of jungle formula on my legs and thicker trousers and I had too many layers on my top half to be accessible. I had suffered last year after a suspected horse fly bite. And they were nothing like as prevalent then as they were this morning!

I decided to wait to stop for coffee until I reached the shore at Angle bay, which turned out to be about 11:40. I found a concrete block to rest on and had a breather.

The walk around the bay was easy going (occasionally a bit overgrown) and consistently low, finishing with a lovely wooded bit on the edge of an estate near Angle. After a couple of false starts, I eventually found Ben Couzen’s bench for lunch via the very discrete toilet at this end of Angle. I contemplated what to do and decided to do a little more round the headland (mainly in case it turned out I had been bitten by a horse fly and would not be able to do any more if I reacted like I did last year). It was also ideal conditions and I felt I had enough in my legs to do it. It was a lovely section, looking across to the end of the Pembroke Estuary and finally came out of the end of it and back to the coast line looking across to Dale and beyond.

Stopped on a well placed bench for a breather and then in the café at the beach end of Angle for some rum and raison ice cream, after I had established a new touching point. Hope I will use if before the end of the trail (for now on Friday!).

Tidal crossing jeopardy!

Day 8 June 16 – Dale to Sandy Haven

On the trail 7.5 miles (including my diversion!)

Off the trail 2.5 miles

TOTAL 21744 steps 10 miles

Up early to drive to Herbranston, and park by the beach in the free car park. I then had to walk up the hill to catch the Fflesci bus I booked yesterday to take me to Dale. I was there for 9am and the bus came about 9:20am!. On arrival in Dale, there was a convenient café, which served excellent coffee cake! I decided to do an extra bit to contribute to the Dale peninsula walk still to do. This turned out not to be the wisest choice.

I got to my touching post near Dale airfield, did a short section of the coast path, established a further touching point and back into Dale, which all took about an hour!

And then I started the walk for the day, which started with about ¾ of a mile on the road before reaching the Gann, and interesting section of marsh and stony beach and the first of the tidal crossings. It was only after this, that I realised I had made a tactical error because the car was on the other side of the second tidal crossing and that I wasn’t entirely sure of the tide times! Based on what I saw yesterday at Sandy Haven, I guessed I had a couple of hours before there would be a problem but not more than that! This was an unfortunate awakening and I wished I had cracked on with this walk rather than doing the extra bit in Dale!! (and if I missed the crossing point due to the tide it would add a further 2 and a half miles – the coast path walk book particularly did not recommend this!). I had also slightly misjudged the distances involved on this coastal section too! It being further than I had thought. All in all planning not the best!

So I had to keep the pace up on the initial stony beach section and a very overgrown section. It came down to a wall around a bay and I had a brief stop on the path at a bench (which was too high from the ground). I did another couple of miles (which turned out to be quite up and down) and energetic. At least the path was not so overgrown! Eventually I came to a point where there was a path off the coast path. I was now about half an hour from when I was not certain about the tide! This was not good for my nervous system.

I decided to take an inland route a path and the road for speed mainly (as I really didn’t want to do the extra 2 ½ miles if the crossing was underwater). I was also tired and had already done an average days steps. I knew I could do the distance on the road in about 30 minutes (where as the coast path would be slower). It was not ideal but I took the inland cut! Thankfully I arrived with more than enough time to cross the tidal crossing (via my touching point). I returned to the car and had my picnic (using my folding chair) over looking Sandy Haven beach (until it started to rain), before heading to base camp!

Day 9 June 17 Pembroke to Hundleton

On the trail 7,276 steps 3.33 miles

Off the trail 5,924 2.67 miles

TOTAL 13,200 steps, 6 miles

I woke up to heavy rain and achy leg muscles after yesterday’s exertions. I dithered over what to do and eventually settled on driving to Pembroke and doing a circuit including the coast path to Hundleton and back again. Before starting I attempted unsuccessfully to buy postcards so got some envelopes and will improvise! I then had a coffee and some restorative barabrith before making my way back to my touching point from the trail from Pembroke Dock.

I started and it began with a choice of routes around Pembroke castle. There were lots of flags (hopefully marking the King’s official birthday), and I took the outer ring. Then up a side road and up a cut passed the church at Monkton (which was an abbey church due to historic monks!). I walked along the road for about a mile following the trail. I passed some folk keen to give me refreshments – which were really for people doing an ultra marathon! I proceeded to see many runners on the next part of the trail. I also worked out where I could get a bus back into Pembroke if I came back the same way from the far end of Monkton.

The coast past wound down to the edge of the pembroke river estuary (with flood poles) and then up into a series of field with views down to the river and across to the territory I had walked earlier (and particularly last Saturday’s refinery with the scary bridges!). The weather had perked up a bit and I encouraged all the passing runners I met! Eventually after a challenging stile, the path joined a road gently uphill and coming out near Hundleton. I stopped some runners going the wrong way at that point, as I established a touching point (including a running route orange ribbon), before turning off the path into Hundleton.

I was heading for the benches at the centre of the village for lunch, and was contemplating the bus timetable at the bus stop, when the Coastal cruiser stopped on the other side of the road. I had a discussion with the driver (who was eventually going to Pembroke) and hopped on board (as this seemed a good option to get a sense of where this bus goes) and how I might be able to use it. It was also a good option for my achy legs! An hour on the bus followed, which was helpful. The next bit of the trail is going to be challenging with the buses and the distances etc… There is yet another refinery and I may yet have to be creative with my route planning! Certainly don’t want a repeat of yesterday’s debacle!

Grassholm and the wrong bus!

Day 6 June 14th – Day off – boat trip to Grassholm from St Justinian’s nr St David’s

Had a leisurely start to the day and was glad I was finally going to get to go on 2022’s boat trip. Can’t say I wasn’t apprehensive about it too as I am not the greatest sailor! It was hot! So I was glad I wasn’t walking. I drove to St David’s and parked at oriel parc. I had a coffee and a cake (a gluten free carrot cake which was very tasty) before being a bit of a tourist in St David’s. No success on finding sun hats or suitable postcards.

I didn’t go in the cathedral as it was shut (and numerous groups of children were having picnics prior to leaver’s services). I went to see where Jane is in the cremated remains plot, and paused for a bit. There were some very impressive new beehives near by (I am sure she would approve!).

I walked back up in to town and then had a very leisurely lunch back in the oriel parc café. I made my way to St Justinian’s and had an ice cream, before proceeding to the embarkation point for the boat!

We left about 4:30pm on the blue shark and it was a super trip. Ideal conditions on the way out seeing Dolphins and on the way back some of the others saw a whale fin (needless to say I was looking in the wrong direction at the pivotal moment).

As we approached Grassholm the number of sea birds increased exponentially. Gannets, kittiwakes, razor bills, puffins, manx shearwaters and seals! The smell was overwhelming and as we held position and went round the island. It was quite choppy (and I didn’t feel particularly good). It was a sight to behold on a sunny evening.

One thing really struck me as we were heading out to Grassholm that I had walked all the coast path I could see for miles and miles and miles….

Day 7 June 15 Milford Haven to Sandy Haven

On the trail 2 steps 13,413 6.25 miles

Off the trail – steps 6219 2.84 miles

TOTAL 19382 steps, 9.09 miles

I tried to make an early start so I could walk before it got really hot. This was not entirely successful. I drove to Milford Haven and parked the car (and availed myself of some convenient conveniences!). I walked back to the touching point I had established by the war memorial on Saturday and then on to the bus stop (mostly on the trail) by Milford Haven tescos.

I proceeded unhelpfully to get on the wrong bus! It started ok going through Haven and Hubbeston, but when it started to go in the wrong direction completely I realised my error. I had said Herbranston to the driver but I thing he thought I had said Haverfordwest!. So I walked back again towards Milford Haven tescos. I decided to walk on from there and then catch the bus back where there was less potential for getting on the wrong bus!

Initially I walked through the streets of Haven, and it was a bit up and down and rather hot! I came down a cut to Gelliswick bay to encounter a large fox! I walked round the bay, and then onto a tarmac path round the first part of South Hook LNG terminal. There were many, many signs asking me to keep out and away and lots of imposing fences. Instead of a scary bridge over the pipes, I descended to a beach with many intimidating notices (especially about not lighting a barbecue!) to go under the pipes this time. I reascended up on to the low headland. It was no longer a tarmac path fence on one side (with notices!) and then hedges and overgrowth so not much in the way of views. I eventually stopped when it was low enough to peer over and had a coffee sitting on the path! (I saw no-one on this section of the path!)

After that it got more scenic, I did see some workers from the LNG terminal on a higher path to me (a hot day for wearing high vis and hard hats! There was even a sign to say I had finished the walk around the LNG terminal (in case I could not work this out!)

The path followed the low cliff edge and eventually went down to sea level. I succumbed to temptation and went on to Sandy Haven beach and did about a mile on the beach rather than more of an undulating low path. It was lovely, with a cooling breeze, and occasionally more hazy sunshine. I walked round to the river crossing to the next part of the trail (and was relieved to see a bridge rather than stepping stones). I crossed and established a touching point for another walk, before crossing back to a shady spot for lunch on a rock.

After a leisurely lunch watching passing horses and dog walkers, I went off the trail though the long way round if the bridge was inpassable) up to Herbranston. I had half an hour on a hot bench on the green, before the bus took me back to Milford Haven tescos. I walked round to the car park (the third time I had walked on that particular piece of road today) and reconnected with the convenient conveniences! Before coming back to base via a trip to Lidl!

Mist, a toad and the Cleddau Bridge

Marloes Mere to Dale (circuit) – June 12^th 2023

Off trail STEPS 8,137 3.79miles, On trail STEPS 6554 3.01 miles

TOTAL 14,697 steps 6.8 Miles

Another long drive out to the car park I had seen near the café on the inland cut yesterday. Timed my arrival too so the café at Runwayskiln would be open. There was a bit of palaver getting the coffee, as the owner who was serving was working in an area he didn’t usually. So there was difficulty getting the coffee and then working the till. I was given a very good complementary bakewell tart, which I enjoyed (eventually) sitting in a converted pig sty. I used the facilities and was abit shocked to see a large toad (which I nearly speared with my walking poles) which was lurking behind the cubicle door.

Anyway I set off in the misty conditions (as it had been yesterday). When the sun did break through it got rather humid so with the exception of blotting out the view the mist was quite helpful. I did the inland leg first following some rather strange way mark signs with frogs (or toads on!), then a stretch on a narrow lane, before a connecting lane and track to the abandoned Dale airfield. There was another bit where I was conscious of the horse flies near some cows and I had a conversation with a couple of cyclists (who are not permitted on the coast path itself!).

The misty conditions made the state of the airfield all the more forlorn. Just me, the sheep and the hard standing slowly crumbling! It was a bit eerie but easy walking! I realised as I was going that the coast path was a stones throw away (and had seen someone sitting on a bench which turned out to feature later!).

Eventually just above Dale, I cut on to the coast path and established a touching point to take up the trail on another day. I then began to walk back on the coast path – which was delightful easy walking (even if the views were somewhat obscured by the mist). I climbed up and down near the Hookses (a group of pink cottages) and shortly after the ascent found a wall to sit on for a coffee on the trail. I was very conscious not to sit on any more ants nests after yesterday. I admired the bees among the flowers!

I carried on on the coast path eventually coming out by the bench. This was conveniently empty and as it was lunch time I decided to stop there (and the view was surprisingly clear of mist). I found a spot by a low wall around some hard standing to relieve myself and settled to a very scenic lunch spot. A group of Australians arrived and decided to have their lunch on the low wall! I felt abit guilty. The final mile included a descent down to Marloes sands, and then back up again to the cut through to the café and touching point I had established yesterday. Then a repeat walk back to the car, via the toilets by the café (no toads this time!). At this point there was also evidence that the paths had been strimmed for easy access unlike the ones I had been walking on on Sunday.

I drove back via Milford Haven, to acquire something more comfortable to sit on. The holiday let has 2 very low and saggy sofas which I don’t seem to be able to get comfortable on! I bought a folding recliner (like the ones at Sandra and Peter’s caravan), which was a suitable bargain from Home Bargains. It will also fit in the car to go home at the end of this break and can live in the Rectory Summer House.

Neyland to Pembroke 13^th June 2023

On the trail 16,538 STEPS 7.57 MILES

I decided to do a much less remote walk on this day and to carry on from Neyland due to the forecast heat. Today’s walk was mostly close to a bus route so I could duck out readily if it all got too hot. I started earlier and decided to walk and then get the bus back. I drove to Neyland and was ready to start at 9:15. I touched my rock touching point and set off! The initial section was up through Neyland streets, and then a wooded section alongside the marina, which led back up to the main road (A477). I would not normally be very enthusiastic about walking next to a main road, but this was a bit different. First the bridge over the marina and then the road continued to the Cleddau Bridge. I have driven across the bridge many times, and I had been looking forward to walking it and the views did not disappoint. The Samaritans notices at either end were a bit sobering.

The coast path worked its way down through Pembroke Haven (and a housing area) into Pembroke Dock. I found some toilets by Asda, and then started to walk around the old dockyard area. There were a sequence of painted benches and I had a coffee on the star wars one! It was getting hotter than I really liked but it was good to stop.

The trail climbed up to the Defensible Barracks through streets and a wooded path. The barracks looked rather austere and deteriorating! But the views across included a glimpse of the Preseli Hills (that my guide book had suggested were only visible on a good day).

More street walking followed, which was a bit up and down, before cutting down to a surprising rural section with paddocks and wild flower fields overlooking the Pembroke river, culminating in a very welcome woodland. By this stage I was close to where I wanted to finish, and also where I could get the bus back to the car. I paused for a long drink in the woodland before working out, I could probably get the next bus. I established a touching point as I left the trail, and had an ice cream at the garage by the bus stop. It was a very satisfying bus ride back to the car which took about 20 minutes!

Rain and mist!!

Milford Haven to Neyland – 10^th June 2023

On trail STEPS 16,600 Estimated distance, 7.5 miles

So here we are the 2023 section of Alison Way’s adventures on the Wales coast path. Picking up in Pembrokeshire where I left off in 2022, with a new set of waterproofs, new superfeet insoles in my walking boots and 4 new pairs of bridgedale socks (3 blue and 1 grey!). I have a comfortable base in a holiday let about mid-way along the trail I want to do on this holiday.

Looking for an easy starter to day 1 – decided to park the car in Neyland and get the bus to Milford Haven and walk back, a walk which is dominated by skirting around the enormous Milford Haven oil refinery. I found a free car park and a suitable bus stop, and waited. I established a touching point (a rock by the bus stop). The bus was about 10 minutes late, and dropped me in a parallel road to where I joined the trail by the town war memorial (establishing a touching point there to pick up on another day). Unfortunately I had believed my phone app and that we might have showers. It began to rain hard so I donned my new kagoul (blue and white polka dots!!) but my waterproof trousers were still in the car.

The initial trail took me through parts of Milford Haven, finding a much needed toilet by the water gardens, and then down to the black bridge, crossing castle pill. By this stage the unforecasted rain was hard and persistent!. I worked my way up to regain height through a housing estate, with discouraging signs suggesting it was a private road (though occasional coast path acorn stickers were reassuring). A rather dangerous section on the side of B4325 followed for about ¼ of a mile. Before heading down a farm track to Venn Farm. The track skirted the farm, and then across a couple of fields to nearer to the oil refinery. A track through some scrub and woodland eventually reached the coast line, and huge fences were surrounding the numerous solar panels in the fields around the oil refinery.

I met a couple just before the turn of the path along the coast. The coast path turned out to be fence on one side, hedge and overgrowth on the other with very occasional views of Milford Haven. The path was pretty overgrown too making it slow and wet going! There was impressive displays of wildflowers through the fence. I was in need of lunch and a break but being fussy about having a view I went about a mile and a half before somewhere suitable emerged.

In this section I encountered 3 foot bridges, over pipes and roads. These were made of wire sheets, and extremely transparent. The first 2 were flat and once I had realised not looking down was a good idea, not too bad. I have never been very keen on walking on things were you can see the world beneath you (on piers etc…). The last foot bridge was sloping down at about 30 degrees from horizontal. I gingerly crossed (as it was slippery due to the rain) and held on to aspects of the wire fence, which unhelpfully prevented access to the handrail! I really didn’t enjoy the last one (but needs must) and I went into ‘intrepid’ mode. At the other end of the bridge, I found some steps with sufficient view to warrant a lunch stop and had some much needed sustenance and I had calmed down significantly by the end of the break. It was still raining – but more a steady drizzle. I had a chat with a passing walker during lunch, and advised her not to look down on the footbridge ahead!

Thankfully there were no more footbridges, there was another section down to sea level, and back up again, and then quite a nice wooded section, with a wide path and not so overgrown as it had been around the refinery. Eventually the track reached a road into Hazelbeach and the path continued on a road by the shore back to the car. I enjoyed a rest on a wet British legion bench by the toilets in Hazelbeach and the rain had just about stopped.

I enjoyed the section on the road, admiring the views across Milford Haven and the different gardens and houses. It is clearly a very good year for flowers and ornamental cats and a delightful pig! I eventually made my way back to the car. I was a bit stiff as this had turned out to be a longer walk than I had anticipated! I also messed up using the phone step counter so the distance is a bit hazy but it was all pretty much on the trail!

St Martin’s Haven – Marloes Penisula 11^th June 2023

Steps – 16,708 On trail 12,256 off trail 4452

Distance 7.68 miles on trail 5.62 miles off trail 2.06

Rather a leisurely start (walking commenced at 11:20)! Quite a long way to drive to the area where I finished in 2022 – also somewhat delayed by going rather wrong on the way! Anyway parked at the National Trust car park at St Martin’s Haven. There were loads of cars (and I was a bit concerned it was going to be really busy!) but it wasn’t. Turned out this was where you could get boat trips to Skomer Island. I was in the middle of the section of coast path I was going to do, so didn’t start with a touching point. It was misty and humid when I set off.

It was a bit eerie with the billowing mist, but the initial section had wide grassy paths and was very straightforward. I was a bit concerned about the fresh cow dung and a few horse flies (it was in this area I had succumbed to what I think was a horse fly bite which stopped walking earlier than I had planned in 2022). I carefully avoided all the fresher looking cow pats!

After about a mile, it became more typical coast path, rougher and a bit overgrown. I stopped and had a coffee break, perching on a convenient rock just before the path deteriorated. The scenery was impressive if rather misty. I had studied the map carefully and decided to cut back over to the other side (and the point I had stopped on the trail last year!). Also I have done this walk before (about 10 years ago!) and had a memorable bullock encounter on the other cut through which I did not want to repeat. At this point, I set up a touching point for when I continue. This rather mystified a couple who were having a snack by the gate to the inland path. The track came out by some toilets and a café. I used the former, and made plans to use the latter when I take up the trail again.

After a track across a field, I was then on a side road, and the road down to Martin’s Haven walking back towards Marloes for about ¾ of a mile before turning down a track I had used before which led down to the coast path. It was good to connect with my coast path sign touching point, before heading back towards St Martin’s Haven. Again I was struggling to find somewhere to stop for lunch as the path was very narrow and overgrown. Eventually after a couple of up and down bits, I found a grassy mound. This afforded a view, which improved as the mist briefly lifted whilst I ate my lunch. I was rather distracted by some black and white birds on the sea (?puffins?). Unfortunately the number of ants increased as I was eating and watching the birds, and I realised I was sitting very near an ants nest. Numerous ants then had to be evicted from my rucksack and seat pad.

The walk continued much as before and within about half an hour the mist had rolled back in. The scenery was lovely but it was humid and the path was surprisingly overgrown. Eventually it wound down to sea level and a small bay where the boat trips came in and out. I walked back up the road to the car park!

Joy, delight, and disaster!

Tuesday 21^st June – St Brides to Marloes (plus the beach at Newgale)

Total Steps: 16,351– 8504 steps on the trail , 7807 off the trail

Total: 7.5 miles 3.9 on the trail, 3.6 of the trail

Running Total: 70.1 miles – 44.3 miles on the trail, 25.8 miles off

It was a warm start, and a long drive back to St Brides to start the next part of the trail. I decided to do the inland leg first on this walk, and to try to walk until it got too warm. I ended up on a very wiggly route along the coastal back lanes in the car, and I was ready to go touching the coast path touching point just after 9:30am

The inland stretch of this walk first past a functioning but locked church, and then was across active farm land (fortunately mainly arable). There was one field with bullocks right on the other side thankfully but also lots of active horse flies around fresh dung near the path. It was pretty delightful with different crops, and some sections with good borders awash with wild flowers. It was quiet too, I met 2 couples both of whom I met again on the cliffs doing the same circuit as me). There were kissing gates linking the fields with short link paths, and a couple of styles, one with stone steps up.

I ended up in Marloes, with the path coming out by the facilities, which was very convenient. I initially went the wrong way (though this did mean I saw the clock tower) and then realising my mistake walked through the village and a little beyond to where a path connected to the coast path. I set up a touching point on the coast path sign, and had worked out where to park the car for the next leg of the path. I was soon coming out by the black cliffs and found a perching point for morning coffee in a cove which was completely idyllic. I lingered a little as it was so pretty.

The first section of the cliff path, with clear seas, warm sunshine and redstone cliffs was reasonably straightforward as well as beautiful, once I had climbed up from the cove. I passed a potential marquee reception venue, and then the cliffs rolled along soon joining the wall of the St Bride’s estate. There was one higher section, which was a bit of a stretch in the heat, but then it continued in much the same vein, winding back round the headland.

The second section of the coast path was close to the wall and further away from the edge, allowing a wide expanse of grassy growth to slip away to the cliffs. As I rounded the second corner of the wall, I came across a suitable bench for a lunch stop. It was about then as I sat down, that my leg started to bother me. I ended up using the seat pad, as I thought it was the edge of the bench – but I now realise it was the bite on the back of my thigh I either picked up then or had picked up earlier and not noticed. (The pictures show the extent of St Brides bay I have walked on this trip!)

It was an easy amble back to the car from there, and St Brides was very busy. So I went back to New Gale to try and fill the gap in the trail (2 miles) on the beach. I did manage about a third of that but the tide was too far in. I left a touching point on a stone and thought I would be back. It was lovely to walk on the beach but my thigh was aching a bit! I had a pricy ice cream and came back to base camp.

I investigated my thigh, which was just rather red at that point, and as the evening progressed it got very sore. I tried both bite cream and savlon to soothe it, neither helped. After watching bake off the professionals, I took a much closer look at the back of my thigh (with a mirror and my phone as a torch) – the problem area was now about the size of a milk bottle top, and blistering, sore and warm. I was abit alarmed and rang NHS 111. I dozed and about 11:30, they rang back first and I was more alarmed that the sore area had grown and they instructed me to mark round it. They rang back again at 1:30 and prescribed some antibiotics to pick up in Haverfordwest in the morning and to rest it. I contemplated the NHS website on bites, and also concluded I needed to cover it – and would pick up something to do that with the prescription. I didn’t sleep well.

I can’t see me managing any more of the trail on this visit – so I will have to pick up the trail on another visit from the black cliffs near Marloes. It has been fantastic and I am amazed I have done as much as I have in view of the difficulties with my fitness and the walker bus driver shortages. In the circumstances to have added another 44 miles to my tally on the trail is good (and over 70 miles in total!). I have been very blessed with the weather and God’s good earth in all its beauty!

Joining the dots

Monday 20^th June – Abereiddy to Solva (base camp)

Total Steps: 16,016 – 16,016 steps on the trail

Total: 7.4 miles 7.4 on the trail

Running Total: 62.6 miles – 40.4 miles on the trail, 22.2 miles off

Different start to the day, as I collected things I needed from the car, I saw a fox in the green space around complex containing base camp. The fox didn’t move when I first went out, but did move when I came back with my camera.

I then walked to the minimarket bus stop to catch the Fflesci bus. It had started to send me texts, but as I had had trouble with the booking, I could not make head nor tail of what the app was doing, I was a bit unsure about what would happen. Eventually the bus arrived, with the friendly Mike driving it. He explained lots of people found the app difficult to understand. We did 2 pick ups for shopping trips and it was good to see the care being taken. We then headed off for Abereiddy as I had booked and he dropped me at my last touching point – the Strumble Shuttle bus stop above the bay.

By the time I was ready to actually start walking it was 10:45am, and the weather was much warmer and the wind (alleluia!) had dropped. I briefly contemplated doing the coast path section, but decided my eccentric plan B was a safer option, so I started up the road, enjoying the views. I met a couple of people walking down the road, and we discussed the joyful warm weather. By a complex I saw a kestrel type bird of prey and later over the cricket field, and airfield a buzzard.

I got up to Berea and by this stage was looking for a place to have morning coffee. The chapel proved not to have any outside benches, so I continued onto a connecting side road (with grass up the middle in places). After about ¼ mile, I reached Llandigige Fawr. Fortunately there was a very pleasant cricket pitch with benches, ideal for my purpose and with great views across to the striking headlands behind St David’s.

It was warm going on the minor road, this time I saw a church which had definitely been repurposed. Then there was a very brief section on the main A road, which I did as quickly as possible. Traffic was light fortunately, and I was soon at the next minor turning, and the entrance of a rather overgrown green lane path. This led to an area of common land, rather overgrown, marshy with lots of local ponies. One of whom was very keen to get acquainted. The path was a bit indistinct in places, and towards the end of this section and to avoid some mud, there was a section of stepping stones. I began to see in this section and the disused airfield beyond lots of orchids.

It was a relief to get to the airfield, which turned out to have paved paths, and I met the team mowing the edges) – near where I entered there was a stone circle and a convenient bench for lunch. Again the views up to the distinctive headlands beyond St David’s set the scene. It reminded me of 2 things, stone circles being visible from above (like Avebury from the ridgeway) and the whole machair look of Lewis particularly with the stones.

The walk across the airfield was rather different, especially when we finally got to where the runway was. All the buildings had been removed, but I had happened on this by chance and it was certainly a good space that could be promoted more.

The next stage was a farm track, that passed a camp and caravan site, down to the main road, just down from the holiday let. I didn’t fancy another short stint on the edge of the A road, so I crossed over and made my way back to the base camp initially on a track, across the fields and then a path connecting to near where the archaelogist’s portaloo is!

It was a very different walk, but a good one and I was glad I had connected the gap with where I left off in September. Back to St Bride’s tomorrow as the prospective boat trip option has now moved to Friday. It was also good to do something easier (as I was quite achy after yesterday’s over exertions!)

St Bride’s bay part 2

St Bride’s Bay – part 2

Saturday 18^th June – Beyond Little Haven (Musselwick view point) to Harold stone and back again

Total Steps: 13,998 – 6726 steps on the trail 7269 off the trail

Total: 6.4 miles 3.1 on the trail, 3.3 miles off

Running Total: 44.4 miles – 26.9 miles on the trail, 17.5 miles off

I paid significant attention to the weather forecast, and wrapped up more than I had done previously, walking in my waterproofs (and gloves) as the ambient temperature was 12 degrees and there was still a stiff breeze. It is now beginning to take a while to get to where the walks need to begin, so I drove on mostly windy lanes from New Gale to the parking space beyond Little Haven – there was room for about 4 cars at the Musselwick view point (and mine was the 3^rd vehicle). I set up a touching point on the bench present to admire the view, and then set off on the outward leg of the walk (this time doing the off route section first (except where the coast path was on the road!).

It was interesting to walk down through Little Haven, and I found a couple of dragons in passing. It has been a while since I have been passing through places. I availed myself of the facilities in the village, and was soon walking up and over the ridge on the road to Broad Haven. I had come to Broad Haven on one of the Welsh half term holiday weeks with my family when I was a child, and this is the last of the 4 destinations we had visited that I have passed through on the trail. Can’t say I remember it. I have ofcourse been to Broad Haven many times with Jane more recently, and I walked past our favourite café. There were a few people about, and surfing lessons going on, as well as a few hardy swimmers.

I followed a path I have used before through Haroldston Woods, and it was nice to be more sheltered out of the wind and in the trees. The path gently climbed to an exit near the cut through I used yesterday from the coast path. To make sure I went the right way I did follow carefully via the Ordinance survey map app!

I made my way across the link path, and thought I saw a large rock. It was beginning to drizzle at this point. The rock got up and it soon became apparent it was a very bonnie big black bull. I was soon on the cliff path, and I reconnected with yesterday’s touching point and headed down the easy path back into Broad Haven – I stopped for a drizzly coffee break on a welcoming bench. I made my way back through Broad Haven – this time stopping in Ocean café, and I succumbed to another coffee (in the dry) and an excellent piece of barabrith.

Then I retraced my steps on the road up and over into Little Haven – and then the path took to the cliffs, via a viewing point. The path then got quite a lot more energetic, with some steep steps, and a sequence of ups and downs as it worked back out to where I had parked the car. In view of the weather forecast I decided to stop at this point, and indeed it did rain heavily about an hour later!

In case you have been wondering why I went wrong the other day – near the end of today’s trail I saw signs which accounts for the mistake I made. The top one is the coast path sign (with black writing) and the second one for the coast park!

Sunday 19^th June – St Bride’s cross to beyond Little Haven (Musselwick view point) and back again

Total Steps: 23,589 – 13,410 steps on the trail 10,179 off the trail

Total: 10.8 miles 6.1 on the trail, 4.7 miles off

Running Total: 55.2 miles – 33 miles on the trail, 22.2 miles off

It took nearly 40 minutes to get to my starting point at St Bride’s, quite inspiring really to think I have walked as far as I have. I used the facilities, and checked there wasn’t a pay machine before wrapping up back in water proofs again, as the temperature was again about 12 and there was a very gusty wind. I had spent quite a lot of time working on the walk for today, and had opted to walk in this direction, which turned out to often be in the very strong wind! I established a touching point, and set off!

The first section was through the bay and then up on to low sandstone cliffs. The wind was keen, and it was on occasions a bit edgy but it was a pretty walk, and I was soon at the mid-walk exit point I had identified. It was a bit disconcerting to see how the path was on cliff edges overhanging! People were sparce throughout the walk today!

I decided to carry on and the coast path got more challenging, moving up and away from Sandstone. I alarmed some calves (fortunately on the other side of a fence), as I was working up to a greater height. Again it was all abit edgy, it got a lot more challenging around 3 small coves, apparently popular with smugglers. I can’t imagine access was easy but it was not overlooked.

After these the path skirted round the cliffs undulating abit – with vegetation down to the sea, it was reasonably easy going wind aside. I met an interesting couple at this point and we had a long chat about the merits of this path. By this stage I was also looking for a vaguely sheltered point to have a coffee stop. This eventually happened at Ticklas point, where there was a rock I sheltered behind.

The next part seemed to take longer than I expected, one more open section to Borough Head and then about a mile in woods – the undulating continued. This presence of the wood made it more sheltered from the wind, which was a relief but it was a bit strange. Eventually I made it back to the touching point bench – to find a family using it. I touched the rail near it and then diverted back to the road. My step count showed I had walked further than I intended!

I decided to have lunch at the church after about ¾ of a mile of the back route. It was not clear if the church was functioning – a broken notice board and locked. I was grateful for a bench memorial, with an excellent view. I contemplated the unknown sailor on a memorial in front of me, and an interesting trunk carving on another stone.

The lanes back was a bit of a struggle, but I managed. It included a brief spell on a green lane which was impassable for vehicles. I was right to have made sure it was mostly down hill (which had accounted for my walk direction!) and I made it back to the car feeling rather weary though I had walked over 10 miles! Lots of good views of the coast, and St Bride’s castle helped with motivation!

St Bride’s Bay – part 1

Thursday 16^th June – New Gale to Nolton Haven and back again

Total Steps: 14,532 – 7664 steps on the trail 6,868 off the trail

Total: 6.6 miles 3.5 on the trail, 3.1 miles off

Running Total: 30.4 miles – 20 miles on the trail, 10.4 miles off

I woke up a bit later than usual – the sun was shining and it was pleasantly warm (19). By the time I had driven to New Gale, I was not setting off on the trail until 10:15. I have decided to start proper on the next section around St Bride’s bay – there is a short piece to join up the trail from Porthmynawyd but I have a cunning plan to address that on the day I do the boat trip and when the tide is out on New Gale beach! I have also moved onto the South Pembrokeshire map!

Anyway I set up a touching point, with a puffin sign on the toilets of the car park. I managed to get the parking app to work, which was pleasing and set off initially on the road above the beach at New Gale as the tide was in! It was a bit sad to see the café at the third car park firmly shut (what with that and the café of choice (Sands Café) in New Gale being a building site!), it is all a bit sad to see.

The section on the road was OK and easy going, but a bit dicey with a narrow road, encroaching stones from the beach, and passing cars. I was glad initially to divert off on the cliffs when the path emerged after about ½ a mile. This proved to be a bit of a false joy. The path started to do the up and down thing, with amplification – so the descents got deeper, ascents higher and the path trickier. It was good to be walking towards Ricketts head rock, which is very visible when walking on New Gale beach. The third descent (and one with 2 path options as one was so badly eroded) came out by a disused mine shaft, which I remembered seeing before. It was along the path after that I met a woman and her son. I remarked that the path was very up and down, and she said – the worst is still to come!

As I had just completed another ascent, I found some crab claws on the path (not sure if this was a bird or human intervention but it must have been a big crab!) Sadly, the woman was right, as I reached the point directly above Rickett’s head rock, I realised the only way down was a very precipitous slope and with a lot of loose gravel on the surface. I took a phone call part way down, confirming tomorrow’s boat trip – weather permitting, which was more than a little surreal. It was slow progress but eventually I stopped for a late morning coffee to restore my equilibrium near the foot of the rock.

I carried on and eventually this taxing path turned down into Nolton Haven. I found a bench to sit on, and contemplated what to do. I was not happy to go back the way I had come. This had been my initial plan (and to walk back on the beach near the Mine workings). So a cunning plan b was hatched to walk back on the road. I used the available facilities, and had a snack and used the bench as the touching point for the coast path.

After a steady ascent back, this turned out to be an Ok choice. Eventually I had lunch on a bench in a national trust car park, which was more scenic than it sounds. And the views down to the beach (where the tide had now gone back out) on the second leg on the road were good.

Friday 17^th June – Nolton Haven to Harold’s stone and back again

Total Steps: 16,833 – 8438 steps on the trail 8395 off the trail

Total: 7.6 miles 3.8 on the trail, 3.8 miles off

Running Total: 38 miles – 23.8 miles on the trail, 14.2 miles off

After an early night, I was up with the lark to be ready for the 8:30 boat trip from St Justinian’s. The wind had got up overnight, and sadly just after 7:20am I got the call to say the boat trip was off. The wind direction (south easterly) was the problem, and it turned out with the way the weather went this was all for the best. I have rearranged to Tuesday – so fingers crossed for that!

Had a more leisurely coffee and then set off for Nolton Haven for the next leg of the trail. I am being a bit hampered by the absence of the Puffin Shuttle, so will have to do a circuit back to where I parked. It was not possible to use the car park app, as there was no phone signal in Norton Haven. I was on the trail climbing out of Nolton Haven shortly after 9:10am, having connected with the touching point I left on the bench by the car park. The stiff breeze was notable and I had set off without my fleece on (a first) as the air temperature was warm (about 19). The views around the first headland were good, and I looked down on a set of ladies having an early swim who I had seen in the car park. Apart from a few very well maintained steps, it was easy going into Druidstone and the path dropped down to behind the beach. The tide was well in!

It was then abit frustrating as the lovely Druidstone Hotel (which I have frequented with Jane in the past) owns the land, so the path goes up to the road and winds round a big section of cliff with views down to the beach. Eventually, after a section up on road, then a path parallel to the road, the path finally cut back across the headland to the coast from the road. This then joined a section I have been to with Jane suitable for disabled access which runs above Haroldston Chins. I had a coffee stop here and took in the fantastic views. It was beginning to cloud over, and the fleece went back on and stayed on!

I decided to do another mile on the coast path – which was very easy going to connect with a path back at the Harold stone. All in all this whole section of coast path had been the least challenging but nonetheless very scenic! I soon got to the turning point, and used a coast path footpath sign as the touching post. The path I had identified turned out not to exist, so I had to do a slightly longer back route on the road.

This included a stop at St Madoc’s church in Haroldston West (which was a hamlet with a handful of houses). The signs in the porch say it all. I availed myself of the bench in the churchyard and contemplated.

I descended and rejoined the road past the Druidstone Hotel, and then back up after passing a very ‘ecofriendly’ property with magnificent views. By now it was damp in the air the sea mist/low cloud were very much in evidence. I walked past where they hold Nolton Haven drive in cinema – no evidence of any showings any time soon! I was soon winding back down into Norton Haven, where the car was.

More tales from the trails

Tuesday13^th June – St Justinian’s to Porth Clais

Total Steps: 13,774 – 13,774 steps on the trail

Total: 6.3 miles – 6.3 on the trail

Running Total: 17.8 miles – 12.3 miles on the trail, 5.5 miles off

The day started with a drive to Porth Clais where I ended yesterday and then a wait for the Celtic Coaster to take me to today’s start at St Justinian’s. I saw another load of youngsters gathering in the National Trust car park, who had climbing gear with them. They set off whilst I was waiting for the bus to come. On the bus I had a chat with a couple going on a boat ride from St Justinian’s – I was quite inspired by this, and picked up a leaflet for later perusal.

I used a puffing poster as the touching point. I set off from St Justinian’s around 10am and for the first hour it was pretty idyllic, low and pretty cliffs, with only one tricky descent (and no other people!) That of course didn’t last. The first set of people I saw were a group of about 20 girls and a few teachers (probably) doing some kind of sponsored event. One of the teachers was carrying a giant boob! Not very sensibly at the front so he couldn’t see his feet. When I saw them again later, it was being carried as a back pack. After that I saw a steady stream of people, but no more giant boobs.

In this early section I saw a number of sea birds, including cormorants and my first “red beaks” – oyster catchers. These can count as wildlife of the day. Sadly it is clearly not the season for seals, and a couple of bits of seaweed, rocks and buoys provided disappointment on closer inspection.

I selected a coffee stop to recover from the noisy girls with the giant boob, and just after the cairn marking the most westerly point in mainland Wales. This had fantastic views of Ramsey Island and back towards St Justinian’s. The early easy going didn’t last! And a rocky section followed. To be more technical about it, this is about geology on the Treginnis peninsula – and according to my trusty coast path guide – the oldest Pre-cambrian rocks in Pembrokeshire! In other words, lots of rocky bits, significantly higher than what had gone before, heathland around and lots of precipitous ups and downs (and even a bit of inelegant rock climbing!). Anyway I managed but I was quite tired by the time I wound down to Porthlysgi beach and had some lunch.

I knew the final section was relatively straightforward, after the initial ascent up on to the headland once again. Speed (is not of the essence) and progress was not quick! The views remained inspiring, with St David’s head, and Strumble head further away (and a previous conquest 😉 in my adventures). As I rounded the headland towards the descent to Porth Clais, another outbreak of climbers was apparent on the opposite side of the harbour. I could also see numerous tents (and associated facilities) just up the hill from where they were (and the caravan park I briefly visited on Monday). I also resolved the question how they got to the bottom of the cliffs (as I saw a couple abseiling down!). I have not resolved the question why climbers have all the same tent!?

A gentle and uneventful descent into Porth Clais was very welcome, and I reconnected with the bus stop touching point. After I had shed my boots and used the much appreciated facilities, I had a hot chocolate at the drinks shack – which was very good!

A short necessary drive to garner provisions followed, and to top the car up with petrol.

Wednesday 15^th June

Both ways from Whitesands

7241 5.26

9370 6.81

13,363 9.71

Total Steps: 13,363 – 9370 steps on the trail 3,993 off the trail

Total: 6 miles 4.2 on the trail, 1.8 miles off

Running Total: 23.8 miles – 16.5 miles on the trail, 7.3 miles off

On the way to Whitesands bay, I stopped in St David’s to book a boat trip for early on Friday, after studying the leaflet I had picked up earlier. All things being well, this will mean an early start (I need to be at St Justinian’s, ready to go at 8:15!) and sea birds and more!

It has to be said, I wasn’t feeling 100%, due to the efforts of yesterday and an unwise excess of chick peas. I set up a touching point using a smart stone coast path sign near where I had parked the car.

I decided to walk to St Justinian’s first and then get the celtic coaster back, and see how I was. It was a sunny start (but not hot – no heatwave here), with people already on the beach – and the path was pretty kind – narrow and rather overgrown in places, but not challenging! I also saw a small lizard (rush across the path) and my first orchids – so these can be wildlife of the day.

I availed myself of a bench (a rarity on the trail) for a brief stop. The early part of the walk the people were at a manageable level, but post my coffee stop (again with fantastic views of Ramsey Island) it was getting quite busy. This was a bit awkward as we wound round into St Justinian’s as the path was very edgy, narrow and a bit overgrown. I realised I was close to the time of the celtic coaster, so I didn’t avail myself of the available ice creams, touched the puffin touching point, and walked back up to the bus stop. The bus came a couple of minutes later.

I disembarked at the top of the Whitesands car park, by the café, so had a coffee and a cake. My first of this holiday. The only choice was Victoria sponge, which tasted better than it looked. The café had seen better days I felt, as I had frequented it before. It had clouded over at this point, and I dithered about what to do.

I decided to give the onward coast path a bit of a go, so touched my coast path touching point and set off. I am on the horns of a dilemma. The next section of coast path is described as tough by the guide. It is 7.5 miles to Abereiddy where I finished the trail in September (but with no easy exit points!). I am keen to join the dots, but not put myself into terrain which is a step too far, and which could stretch my low level of fitness! I did another mile, with the going getting increasingly difficult – and the wildness of this section becoming much more obvious. I used a rock at the junction of paths as the touching point, and near some more wild horses, who were posing rather scenically.

I took a left hand track, to go over the shoulder of St David’s head (not to ascend to the top) and head back towards Whitesands bay. The views from my higher vantage point were splendid in both directions – but this has also helped my resolve that this section of the coast path really should not be attempted in my current condition and on my own, so I need a plan B! The views back over the ground I had covered was equally inspiring (and I was a bit awed by how far it looked like I had walked over the past few days!). I found a good vantage point for lunch (but didn’t eat much as I was still digesting that Victoria sponge!). Whilst I was watching from this vantage point, I saw the “Fflecsi” bus and I wondered if that might help me joining the dots.

I drove home, and got to grips with understanding the ‘Fflecsi’ bus system and downloaded the app – eventually after a helpful chat with Cameron, a cunning plan B was sorted. I have booked to go to Abereiddy on Monday morning on the Fflecsi bus, and I will walk back across the peninsula from there (rather than on the coast path) to join the dots – It will be nice to have a change of scene on paths and lanes. This is not the first time I have had to be practical and pragmatic about what it is sensible to do!

Meanwhile – this Fflesci bus system might also help me with the path onwards with the non running walker minibuses due to driver shortages. We shall see! To be continued……….