Day Forty two and forty three (16-17 Sept) Walk Day 18

Day 42 Day of rest

Very leisurely start to the day and then a five minute walk in the rain to attend St Peter’s Aberdovey for 11:15 for what turned out to be a communion service (almost entirely in English).  There was a priest with a worship leader taking the service, which was good to see. The sermon was based on Mark 8:27-38, and the preacher quoted Bishop Robert Paterson (who I have met) about the way of suffering, God working in power through weakness and the importance of mission. The quote was something like – Sharing the good news of Jesus Christ is for everyone, and ministry is always the servant of mission! He ended with a proverb! – Don’t be afraid of growing slowly, simply be afraid of not growing at all…

Whatever I had clearly shown my true colours and at the door the priest had already worked out I was ordained!!!

After getting a paper, a very gentle day unfolded, the beautifully acted ‘Remains of the day’ and the owls are now sitting on a snowy branch!

Day 43 Morfa Mawdach to Llwyngwril

Phone stats: 20783 steps, 8.8 miles, walking time 3hr 23 minutes

Highest point 912ft!

Up early to drive to the station to catch the train from Llwyngwril back to Morfa Mawdach. Found a convenient car park and a toilet – and encountered lots of interesting knitting on the station! More of that when I walked back into the village later.  A ten minute train ride, and then touching point touched and off I went. The first two miles, were out on a dyke to the beach at Fairbourne, and then back into the village.

After another convenient toilet stop, I headed into Friog and the beginning of the long uphill section began. I have been to Friog before (the first of the May half term Wales holidays when I was a child). Again like Criccieth – it didn’t instantly strike a chord of recognition. There was a lot of slate spoil, and I certainly remember a blue lake in the quarry above the village (which I saw signs too). I carried on ascending at times very steeply! I met a couple en route I had met on the train a few days ago, and we discussed our relative progress!

After about an hour of climbing, I had a coffee break, but the climb continued eventually coming out near a very isolated half derelict farm house where there was me, evidence of forestry, 2 deserted yellow diggers and lots of lots of sheep…. I was in the cloud level and heavy rain persisted for about half an hour! The highest point was 912 feet up! The route across the top was easy going under foot on a tarmac track following the undulating contours. Eventually I came down from the heights, passed a farm with a spectacular view, and the tarmac track gave way to a grassy path. This reminded me of the fabulous paths near Heddon’s gate in North Devon, and Noss Mayo – and the sort Poldark rides his horse on. I eventually found a relatively sheltered rock to sit on for lunch, as by this stage the wind had got up.

Turning the next corner – Llwyngril came into sight, complete with the 2 inevitable static caravan parks. There was a gentle descent down paths with stone wall boundaries – I went a bit wrong about a mile out, and descended a track to give me a longer stretch on the main road through the village. This enabled me to enjoy more of the yarn bombing (they were raising money for their community centre). I was most entertained by this, just up my street, reminding me of the heady days of the knitted house community project in Hilmarton (I contributed a knitted window box for that enterprise). I particularly liked the badger in a red jeep, the monster from Cader Idris, and the bridge troll. I crossed the bridge by the village shop and then used a knitted cow as the touching post for the day. I will finish off the yarn bombing trail when I resume walking tomorrow!

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I drove back to base camp, and as I was walking back from where I have to park the car to the cottage – I noticed the name of one of the local cafes in Aberdovey! Christ Church has a fantastic sunflower cafe every wednesday morning, and it has just celebrated it’s third birthday.

Day thirty seven to forty one (11^th-14^th  Sept) Walk Day 16 and 17

Day 37 Walk Day 16 Harlech to Dyffryn Ardudwy

Phone stats: 27590 steps, 11.7 miles, walking time 4hr 13 minutes

Slightly delayed start, as I waited for the rain to stop. I did sort out my house insurance whilst I was waiting and got a vastly better deal from Ecclesiastical (about a 1/5 of what my previous insurer had wanted after the flood!)

When the rain had stopped, I started the day at Harlech beach car park just down the road from the touching post at the station … So when I come back later I will complete the loop, touch the start point and walk the missing bit of the path. The first mile or so was on Harlech beach and the tide was right in. When I got to the steps I needed to climb, they were still being bashed by the high tide – so I had a coffee so the water could recede abit – which it did and I managed to dodge the waves to get to the bottom of the stairs.

What followed was a stiff climb up to Llanfair and down to Llandanwg. As there was an open café I succumbed to another coffee! At this point I was hoping to have a good look at St Tanwg’s church near the beach – as it is a good example of an early medieval church (and would help my church history class in the new year) but again it was locked. A big loop around the estuary of the river artro followed. More dykes and fast flowing rivers…Made good progress and ended up having lunch on a bench on Llandebr station. Dithered for abit but decided to carry on…

A long section around another aerodrome followed, and then a lonely section across a wet land nature reserve, which turned into a dunes based reserve. There were a few brave souls wild camping and eventually I got back to a magnificent sandy beach, near shell island. I was rewarded for my efforts by the sun shining and views across Snowdonia opening out. I was getting conscious of the times of the trains (which are at 2 hour intervals) so the section across the beach was at a pace.

Morfa Dyffryn includes one of the oldest naturist beaches in the UK, it was first established in the 1930s. I was just reaching the end of that section, when I saw a naturist with his fully clothed companion! Shortly after that, I found the path out through the dunes to Dyffryn Ardudwy station, saw a stoat and caught the train with 3 minutes to spare… I touched the bench on the station but didn’t have time to take a picture (so I did that when I returned on Saturday morning!). I got back to Harlech station, touched the starting touching point then and did a final ½ mile back to the car to complete the section.

In the evening, I marked up my progress on the Wales map – here is a summary of the story so far

Week 1 BLUE (5 walking days) 43.42 miles

Week 2 RED (6 walking days) 55.51 miles

Week 3-4 BLUE (5 walking days) 57.32 miles

TOTAL (16 walking days) 156.25 miles

Day 38-40 Sept 12-14

Took a trip to Sidmouth to do some important stuff with my mum, and then returned to Wales to set up a new based camp at Aberdovey.

Day 41 Walk Day 17 Dyffryn Ardudwy to Morfa Mawddach Sept 15

Phone stats: 14870 steps, 9.23 miles, walking time 3hr 20 minutes

Decided to let the train take the strain as I had done a lot of driving in the last few days. I walked to the station in Aberdovey and got the train just after 9am – it took over an hour to get back to Dyffryn Ardudwy but I was rewarded with fantastic views from the train, which winds around the coast. I missed a heavy shower too. I touched the bench touching post on the station and set off back to the route. I was soon making reasonable progress across a low section and fields. I had been contemplating that I had not had any solitary bull encounters or really difficult stiles, and both of these promptly featured. Fortunately the bull was very sleepy and didn’t get up, and I did negotiate a number of the stiles (the dry stone wall variety of which I am not fond!).

It was a bit of relief to get back to the main road after a particularly awkward dry stone wall stile, I had a breather and a coffee from my flask, and then did the 2 mile section of road. During this the heavens opened, and I got rather wet shortly after I had passed a church in Llanaber, by the time I had got down to the long sea front at Barmouth the rain had stopped. I wound my way into Barmouth, and had lunch in a café – there were lots to choose from!. I decided to cross the bridge for trains, bicycles and pedestrians only to finish the day. I am also not very fond of pier like structures and this was very much one of those with gaps and a mile long. I know it is ridiculous but I don’t like being able to see the water below between the planks!

I touched a touching point where the coast path turns off just before Morfa Mawddach station, and got the train (having a longish chat with a family I had met earlier on the train).

Day thirty five and thirty six (9^th-10^th  Sept) Walk Day 15

Day 35 Day of Rest Sept 9th

Had a leisurely start to the day and walked along to the church in Harlech (St Tanwg’s) (a 10 minute stroll from base camp, and with views of the beach and Harlech castle to enjoy on the way). The service was at 9:30 – it was not clear what it was going to be but it turned out to be bilingual communion, and reminded me quite  a lot of worship at Theological College (which was in Llandaff in Cardiff where we often had bilingual worship). It was from the 2004 book, and I enjoyed immensely that where it was possible Tad Tony signed. It was particularly interesting during the hymns, and I shall be using the sign for alleluia at some point soon! The sermon was very helpful too (and I took the time to say that to Tad Tony afterwards!), and was all about being open and allowing space in the noise and busyness of life… It was about taking time and letting God in…

I had a very leisurely day after that, and I have been finding these Sunday days of rest, particularly refreshing. I read a bit, I did some embroidery, some route planning and watched some telly!

Day 36 Walk Day 15 Porthmadog to Harlech Sept 10th

Phone stats: 32251 steps, 13.6 miles, walking time 4hr 59 minutes

Awake early so took the chance to take an early drive to Porthmadog and was walking by 9:10. I touched the touching point I established at the start of Saturday and set off. It started well with a section next to the steam railway line (to Blaenau Festiniog) and was rewarded with a very close encounter with a passing steam train. Then there was a nature reserve and suggestions of otters, so I was on otter watch after that (no sightings of course!). Then it all got a bit unusual.

I set off on the route round the portmerion estate. It started well, but then I started encountering temporary fencing and the way was guided past a whole load of tents being packed up after the end of the No 6 Festival

https://festivalnumber6.com/music/

Then rows of toilets and showers, and then I started encountering security guards! At one point the path was illuminated – which was very smart! But this was no doubt to help campers back to their tents at night rather than to light the path of coastal path walkers. Shortly after this, when I was very near the heart of it (and the smell of bacon sandwiches was overwhelming) – the signs for the coastal path disappeared. About 20 minutes passed as I wandered about, mystifying security guards and eventually found a lady in the welfare area, who helpfully guided me back to the drive of portmerion, so I could rejoin the path! Taking me through a restricted area to do it. All of this wasted some time, but increased my experience of festivals! There were areas where regimented rows of similar tents were being vacated (no doubt you hired your tent with your ticket) and another area with yurts. I was pleased to see there wasn’t much rubbish around and good recycling bins were available too! All the people leaving caused a bit of traffic issue, and as the next section was along the main road that was not totally great…

After about a mile and a half (and after encounters of the giraffe kind) I had turned off to cross the new bridge at Pont Briwet – I had a quick coffee to admire this feat of engineering and it was very good news (as the coast path walk book had a 9 mile loop to a higher crossing that I could avoid). It was then out, up and around a rocky outcrop and a long section on a dyke above great otter/water fowl country. Saw lots of birds – no otters. There were lots of excellent views across to Portmerion and ahead to Harlech and its castle too!

Eventually came to a section running up and over a couple of small hills, and then running between 2 hills and the coast.  I should have stopped and had lunch at this point, but I carried on and then there were farm tracks, and fields with cows, and an amenity site. It was not so scenic and I ended up having lunch sat on an odd red post, labelled BH24. I encountered on a track like the Canadian road near East Surrey Hospital. At least it was out of the wind. The final section was across fields, and then along the main road. I bought a hot chocolate from the garage as I came into Harlech, and then had a 45 minute wait for the train back to Porthmadog (I had set up a touching point before entering the station). Fortunately there was a section of platform that was covered as this is when is started to rain. I had an interesting discussion with a couple who had been to visit the castle.

Aspects of this day (certainly my encounters with the No 6 festival) were a bit unusual to put it mildly. I have never mystified security guards before by wanting to walk the coast path.

Day thirty one to thirty four (5^th-8th Sept) Walk Day 13 and 14

Day 31 Walk Day 13 Pwllheli to Afon Wen Pandy

Phone stats: 19870 steps, 8.4 miles, walking time 3hr 2 minutes

Parked the car in Pwllheli (around the back of the fun fair) touched it as the touching point, and set off! It was warm and sunny. The walk started off walking around the marina and then there was about 4 miles on the beach taking in Morfa Aberech. It was delightful and at times warm enough to walk without a fleece. At the far end of the bay I climbed onto the low headland to be rewarded with a 270 degree vista of mountains. Breathtaking.

I had lunch a bit farther along the path after the inevitable array of caravan parks and a park which had once been Butlins Pwllheli. The views were glorious throughout this section and for want of sounding like Greg Wallace…. Walking doesn’t get much better than this.

I was then heading inland back up to the main road for a couple of miles, and was feeling rather weary (and too hot!) so in the end succumbed to the lure of a bus stop I passed (using that as the end of the walk for the day) – this was just beyond the village of Afon Wen, and the bus stop was called Afon Wen Pandy!

Day 32 and 33 – Necessary trip back home for a health update. All good. A very long time spent in the car on both days!!! Note to self. DO NOT trust satnav to pick a sensible route when you are in this part of Wales….Good to see Ronni and Jimmy and pick up a few things I had forgotten (including the bird book).  Settled in to a new base camp (on the edge of Harlech!)

Day 34 Walk Day 14 Porthmadog to LLanystumdwy (about a mile short of Afon Wen Pandy)

Phone stats: 23687 steps, 10 miles, walking time 3hr 41 minutes

It was seriously wet as I drove back to Porthmadog. I had motivational issues. I had just missed a bus back to Afon Wen Pandy (and the prospect of waiting half an hour was not good). I knew if I went in a coffee shop, I would probably not walk, so I decided to walk the route the wrong way and start from Porthmadog. This would also mean I would arrive at Criccieth at lunch time (well that was the theory anyway). It started ok, but when the path got near to the coast, it got very bracing! I decided to adapt the route in view of the prevailing conditions, (high wind, heavy rain). The planned route included a couple of miles of the beach at Morfa Bychan, I avoided this by walking through a static caravan park and the village instead. I also took a path up on to the headland, to cut off a corner, I am not sure that was in reality a good idea and the path went higher than I realised.

Surprisingly a church came into view, and I really thought my luck was in, I would be able to have a break from the rain inside. Sadly it was locked, so I ended up having a coffee in the graveyard. It was VERY wet at this point (and all of me was wet despite waterproofs!). The final section into Criccieth after another climb over another headland, included a sheltered section next to the railway line (which was very welcome) and by this stage the rain had gone more drizzly. I had been on a family holiday to Criccieth when I was at primary school. I have to say I didn’t recognise it. I decamped into a café for a very nice lunch, though I did leave quite a puddle on the floor from my waterproofs.

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I decided as it was dry to head back to Afon Wen Pandy, so went along a low section of cliff and another good area for wildlife and birds, which eventually cut back in land to LLanystumdwy. As I was approaching the village, the rain started again, and as I was just edging over the 10 mile mark, I decided to cut my losses and not to do the mile back on the main road to where I had stopped on Wednesday. Forgive me! I marked a touching post and called it a day and got a bus back to Porthmadog. Back at base camp I confirmed I was completely and entirely wet after the days exertions! But to be fair this is Wales and this is the first time in 14 days I have got anything like this wet….

Day twenty eight to thirty (2^nd – 4^th Sept) Walk Day 12 – Exploring the Lleyn peninsula in the car

Day 28 Day of rest

Overslept, so it was a real rush to get to the church for 9:30 (a 20 minute drive away!), and having only had one cup of coffee! Not helped by me thinking when I looked at my watch when I woke up it was 7:30 when it was in fact 8:30. The weather was extremely wet and most of the view was blotted out(!) and it stayed that way all day. Church turned out to be congregation led morning prayer from the ‘green book’. We thought about the importance of bringing peace and making peace. On the way back I harvested a paper and some croissants from the Spar in Nefyn and had some proper coffee and a very leisurely and very late breakfast.

As well as doing some craft, and catching up on Redrock on iplayer!, I did some strategic planning on what to do next, and looked at the public transport options for the next bit of the coast path. I am 4 days off the pace of the walk book (not surprising given my starting level of fitness!), and with other things meaning in the next 2 weeks I am going to lose some time to necessary other matters, I decided to do one more walk on the North Wales trail (which will complete that section) then switch to the other coast of the Lleyn. I will spend some time on Tuesday exploring the Lleyn in the car (so I don’t miss it completely). I have also found some arriva trains (and a couple of buses to help!) and I am staying only 8 miles away from Pwllheli, where I will pick up the trail then head towards the Meirionnydd and Ceredigion sections of the trail!

Day 29  Walk day 12 Y Felinheli to Dinas Dinlle

Phone stats: 32068 steps, 13.59 miles, walking time 4hr 53 minutes

Parked at Dinas Dinlle and got two buses back to Y Felinheli. It had been raining (and was distinctly chilly 11C) when I left the base camp, so I set off in my full waterproofs for the first time. The double bus thing, again, meant quite a late start (10:45). I posted my post cards in the touching point (a post box) and made good progress on the walk into Caernafon. It was nearly all on a combined cycleway/footpath, with glimpses of the menai straights and Anglesey through the trees. I saw the most scenically placed supermarket I have ever seen (Morrisons in Caernafon has an amazing view), and I had a nice coffee (and carrot cake) in a theatre coffee shop in Caernafon. Caernafon marked my completion of the North Wales Section of the coastal path (all 103 miles as Alison has walked!!)

From this point on the path was on a minor road through a huge nature reserve, with lots of wet land and interesting birds. The weather had perked up, the sun was out even it was not exactly tropically hot! As the road moved away from Caernafon there was a row of mountains unfolding (and the cloud lifted from the highest ones). The stretch of mountains was for about 180 degrees (and my pictures don’t do it justice). I realised I must be looking at Y Wydffa (Snowdon), which I confirmed later from the map and a helpful guide in Dinas Dinlle. The view was extremely uplifting – and spoke of our creator God, and the stories of Moses and the israelites, where the presence of God was a cloud over the mountain came to mind

To be honest glorious as it was, I had slight misjudged the length of this section. There was a then a long cut inland with a helpful bench with the most fabulous view of the mountains, where I had a snack and aroused the interest of the local cows. Then more in the nature reserve, and finally 3 sides of a rectangle, a long section on a dyke, then on a road passed a caravan park and Caernafon airport (very reminiscent of Redhill aerodrome!), and then finally the home straight down the sea front to where I had parked the car. The view down the sea front was amazing, mountains ahead and the sea doing it’s stuff, but to be honest it was a bit of a struggle – and I wasn’t surprised when I consulted my phone, that it was nearly 2 miles more than I had done before! Note to self be more careful when combining different sections!

I used the car as the touching point – so that will provide some continuity when I begin walking again on the south side of the LLeyn on Wednesday.

Day 30 Exploring the Lleyn Penisula

I did some car touring, enjoying the beautiful scenery of the Lleyn peninsula on a bright but chilly day – This included Aberdaron with its pilgrim church (associated with RS Thomas) and a stroll on the beach, Abersoch (scene of some childhood memories with smelly sand!), and lunch near Porth Dinllaen, with my NT membership proving very useful. It was good to enjoy the beauty of this part of the world at a more leisurely pace.

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Day twenty five to twenty seven (30 August – 1^st Sept) Walk Days 10 and 11

Day 25 Walk day 10 Llanfairfechan to the edge of Bangor

Phone stats: 27059 steps, 11.4 miles, walking time 4hr 19 minutes

Parked the car again near a bus stop in Bangor, (about 3 miles from base camp) and got the bus back to where I finished at Llanfairfechan. Touched the touching point bus stop, and did about a mile in the village – going under the A55 (which was the closest I got to it all day). There was a café on the beach and I succumbed. Just as well as there were no more opportunities for refreshment on the route for the rest of the day. Fortunately this was the day I was also allowed to use my rucksack again (and I made sure it was as light as possible but it did have some lunch packed inside). There was a very misleading sign on the sea front that said it was 6 miles to Bangor, as the dragon flies perhaps but certainly not as the coast path goes!

The first part of the day was a lovely route clinging to the edge of the coast as the protection of Anglesey made an impact. It was surprisingly isolated (except near to where people could park). I met a lovely chap and had a 10 minute conversation on this remote bit. He advised taking it slowly and savouring the walk opportunity. I do have some issues as to what to do after Monday as I will need to make some tactical decisions on which bits of the coast path to do.  I will also be slipping out of the arriva bus area which is going to make linear walking much more challenging. Through out this period it was all walking paths only (and apart from a bit hopping from paving slab to paving slab on the beach at one point) it was straightforward, and nice not to be dodging fast moving cyclists.

After a picnic lunch, the inland route to avoid the grounds of Penrhyn Castle kicked in. Some roads, fields, a lot of to-ing and fro-ing over the railway (thankfully no role for the A55 in this!). I had a breather and a snack in the churchyard at Tal-y-bont (benches in churchyards always seem to feature on my recent trips to Suffolk). The last 2 miles back was a wooded valley cycle trail. I had joined the North wales pilgrim route at this point. I was rather tired, so bailed out with help from the arriva bus app about a mile from the car (and let the bus take the strain!).  I used a North Wales pilgrim route sign as the touching point…

Day 26

Shifting of base camp from Glasinfryn to Llithfaen near the start of the Lleyn Penisula. Did some shopping in Bangor and had a coffee before setting off properly (had run out of coffee in the holiday let so the need was very great!!) Stopped in Caernafon for groceries, and then whiled away a few hours enjoying the beach at Dinas Dinelle, sorted out where I am going to Church on Sunday (in Nefyn – a couple of miles away) and finally connected with some post cards.

The new residence is a terrace from the 1870s, half way up a steep hill. It also benefits from wifi, a washing machine and a bath – which are all very welcome. The view from the front is particularly awesome. It is well equipped but a bit 1970s! I am settled in and unpacked ready to get back on the trail tomorrow.

 

Day 27  Walk day 11 The edge of Bangor to Y Felinheli

Phone stats: 22068 steps, 9.32 miles, walking time 3hr 33 minutes

Parked at Y Felinheli and got two buses back to the edge of Bangor. This whole process and a bit of a more leisurely start to the day, meant I didn’t start walking until 10:45. I found the touching point north wales pilgrims way sign again and did the final mile on the cycle path and round Hirael bay. It was good by the pier (where I had had lunch 8 days earlier) to look back to see the Great Orme and Little Orme receding into the distance. What followed was delightful walking along the treelined path on the relatively sheltered coastline looking across to Anglesey. There was a section on the shore line and through a nature reserve that was rather hard going underfoot. The nature reserve was lots of short ups and downs and the path eventually came out by Bangor Football club (the weekend match had been played on Friday evening!). A mile or so on the road followed and then the joy of the Menai bridge. A section through an arboretum stretched on to the new bridge (for the A55) and again I went underneath it. It was rarely visible through the trees which was a good thing as it is not very pretty!

Thankfully a long section I was expecting on the road – was replaced by a further inspiring wooded section, including through Vaynol park. There was a lovely picnic bench where I had lunch and I was on red squirrel watch (after a sign alerted me to their presence), but I didn’t see any. Y Felinheli came into sight, but as is the way with things it seemed to take longer to get there! Used the post box by the car as the touching point for Monday’s start.

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I have to make some decisions on what to do next after Monday’s walk (when I will walk from Y Felinheli past Caernafon to Dinas Dinelle (which is the very limit of the arriva bus provision!). But here are some stats and my route map (red in the past 6 walking days – blue for the previous 5 walking days!).

Week 1 BLUE (5 walking days) 43.42 miles

Week 2 RED (6 walking days) 55.51 miles

TOTAL (11 walking days) 98.93

It was inspiring to get back to base camp to hear them singing ‘How great thou art’ at John McCain’s memorial service. The second verse always reminds me of my dad (we had this hymn at his funeral) and I am sure some of his passion for walking is a part of me along with his map reading! My soul has gloried in the wonder of this walk today!

When through the woods and forest glades I wander
And hear the birds sing sweetly in the trees;
When I look down from lofty mountain grandeur,
And hear the brook, and feel the gentle breeze: 

Then sings my soul, my Saviour God, to Thee,
How great Thou art! How great Thou art!
Then sings my soul, my Saviour God, to Thee,
How great Thou art! How great Thou art! 

Day twenty three and twenty four (28-29 August) Walk Days 8 and 9

 

Day 23 Walk day 8 Llandudno to Conwy flyover (round the great orme)

Phone stats: 23621 steps, 9.98 miles, walking time 3hr 34 minutes

To do the great orme today or not to do it that was the first question of the day. The wind had dropped and the sun was out. I decided to go for it. I parked on the west shore of Llandudno, and found a fantastic Cheshire cat. This resort was where the real life Alice (inspiration for Alice in wonderland etc had a holiday home!) and after a few minutes got a bus back to where I had finished yesterday. I touched the touching post and started for the day.

It was a lovely walk – and much less challenging than the little orme had been – with a well surfaced path and all ascent gradual. Great views, lots of interesting birds, sheep, goats and a number of seals all noted.  I made it to the ‘Rest and be thankful’ café in time for morning coffee and at the view point just before there enjoyed the final views looking back to Rhyl and then looking forward to the new terrain ahead –  Lots of majestic hills folding the landscape, with a narrow low level coastal strip. The wind got up a bit on the west side of the Orme, but I was descending gently by then.  After all that I had cleared the Orme and was back at the car by 12:45pm. I decided to carry on after a brief comfort stop, drink and change of socks (an excellent tip from Moyra!). The next part of the walk was up the Conwy estuary through dunes, then around a posh housing development and then up to the flyover just beyond the bridge in Conwy. I would have stopped sooner, had I not been the wrong side of the railway line! I could see buses and bus stops but couldn’t get to them!   I found a touching point near the bus stop on the flyover!

Day 24 Walk day 9 Conwy flyover to Llanfairfechan

Phone stats: 21964 steps, 9.28 miles, walking time 3hr 23 minutes

Parked the car near a bus stop in Bangor, (about 3 miles from base camp) and got the bus back to Conwy flyover. Sadly there was another ghost bus on the app –  so had another 15 minutes to wait for a real bus! I arrived at Conwy flyover in persistent drizzle – touched the touching point and was on the road by 10:10. All went well to begin with – and after 40 minutes had a nice coffee in the Conwy keys marina. It was dry when I left the bar.

Then I got rather confused about the path, and opted as it turned out foolishly to follow the OS map on my phone – which indicated the path going down the side of the A55 (see image below). Had I recoursed to the walk book at this point, I would have realised the coast path has been diverted to nearer the shore. I did about a mile and a half on the pavement next to the dual carriageway (and it was very unpleasant not to mention scary!). Finally, where the other proper route joined the pavement  I was on – it was all abit more protected with at least a crash barrier between me and the A55. For devotees of the A55 this was on the way into the Penmaenbach tunnel. As I proceeded on the route for the cycleway/ coast path was much better protected, and took you to the right of the dual carriageway. The book is dated 2014 and the map 2015 – so I am surprised the route is wrong on the map for the coast path!! I promise I will not do that again and will be more careful about the correct route and check both things in future…

Anyway I was a bit winded after all that, and I carried on along the coast path/cycle path between the trainline and the A55 (all rather noisy!!) Eventually I wound my way over the trainline and into Penmaenmawr and had lunch in a very welcome café and calmed down a bit. By this stage I was about 2/3rds of the distance of today’s walk, but the second tunnel was up ahead. I was extremely careful to follow the route. The engineering of the route was impressive and was completed in 2009 (my civil engineer brother Peter would have a field day!) Effectively it ran between the 2 carriage ways and up above (with one carriageway in a tunnel). It is hard to describe. There was a point where you could cross one of the carriageways on foot to get nearer the sea (which I found hard to believe was allowed and after my earlier experience I absolutely didn’t do it!) The view from the raised coast path/cycle path was great both looking back to the great orme of yesterday and over to Anglesey and by this point it was sunny and warm!

It didn’t take long to reach Llanfairfechan, and I soon hopped back on a bus to Bangor, using the bus stop as the touching post to end the walk.

Day twenty one and twenty two (26-27 August) Walk Day 7

Day 21 Day of rest

Leisurely start, and then migrating in the rain into Bangor to find the cathedral. I was so early (as I had allowed enough time to  have trouble finding the car park/cathedral), I had a café nero. Then into the cathedral, for a well held sung communion. In the absence of the choir, I particularly liked the setting with a cantor holding us (and us mostly singing after her). All the more impressive after much apologising at the beginning as the sound system wasn’t working. The acoustics were good, and the only thing I really struggled to hear was the preach (I had sat near the front). Talking again about Jesus being the words of eternal life, and how eternal life is now – which I am thinking about. There was a great story culminating in the line from the 23rd psalm ‘surely goodness and mercy will follow me all the days of my life’ – in the genre of “the piece of cod that surpasses all understanding”  and no doubt I shall find a circumstance to use that in the future!

I was very struck by a piece of art in the cathedral called still doubting – by John Granville Gregory. It was clearly labelled  “no photos” so I didn’t, and as I am not sure about the copyright I have not copied the image from other places on the internet where it is clearly available. It was Caravaggio-like – but modern day. I particularly liked that Thomas had glasses, and was intently looking at the scar on Jesus side. The scar was definitely healed and though Jesus was in traditional dress the juxtaposition of the disciples clearly of today, spoke of the time discontinuity (and how Jesus is for yesterday, today and forever).  I will probably go back to the cathedral on Friday, to purchase an image of it from their shop!

I drove for abit in the pouring rain to find a café for some lunch (very tasty spicy sweet potato soup), and soon headed home for a crafty afternoon. The kingfisher embroidery is finished – and I am on to owls in bobble hats!

Day 22 Walk day 7 Old Colwyn to Llandudno

Phone stats: 18664 steps, 7.88 miles, walking time 2hr 52 minutes

As I said previously, after an early start (8:55) I drove and did park in Llandudno, and eventually got the bus back to Old Colwyn to pick up the route again. The bus service was reduced due to the bank holiday, and a ‘ghost’ bus passed the stop on the app after 20 minutes but a real one didn’t come for another 20 minutes. This did give me enough time to buy a bottle of water, as I had not picked one up for my bumbag before I had left base camp. It was only when I was finally on the bus that I realised I hadn’t picked up my walking poles (I was going to regret that later). I also regretted that I managed to get off the bus without the water I had bought – so I hope someone on that number 12B got to enjoy it!

Anyway eventually I connected with the touching point from Saturday and started walking at 10:50!! It was fresh and dry, and bank holiday and all really quite busy. I was grateful for the toilets that materialised after about a ½ mile. Colwyn Bay sea front was much improved from my last visit (a holiday with Moyra in July 2002 – Colwyn Bay was particularly memorable for me needing to be educated by Moyra as to why there were UV lights in the toilets in those days). However the walk book also made much of the pier – which has clearly had a calamity since it was published. I had a coffee and ice cream in a crazy golf café after about 3 miles at the far edge of Landrillo-yn-Rhos (and bought another bottle of water), and I stopped to pray in the little chapel, of St Trillo en route.

All was going well, round to Penrhyn bay, where I definitely spotted seals, with the little Orme rising on the horizon. The walk book was very excited about this steep ascent and descent and the coast path being a path not a joint cyclepath/coastpath. I was not! Particularly as my walking poles were in the car. It did turn out to be steep and confusing and on the way up I added the indignity of losing my way. After various attempts to re-find the path, I resorted to sheep paths and the OS map app, and I eventually moved my red triangle to where the coast path really was. I really wished I had my poles!! When I finally was sure I was back on the right path I stopped and had a snack, before tackling the descent. I don’t particularly like climbing without my poles, but I really don’t like tricky descent without them!!! I had just got back to the road again and was giving thanks – when a particularly strong gust of wind caught my Brecon beacons stripey sun hat (my second loss of the day!)

I was glad when I soon reached Llandudno and eventually reconnected with the car. I used a lamppost with a no drones sign as the touching point. I did a bit of a recky of the next bit of the walk, by driving the toll road round the great orme to suss out the path ahead! I stopped at the rest and be thankful café and had some very restorative cheese on toast. After my difficulties with the little orme I didn’t want a repeat performance tomorrow. (The jury is out on whether I will do the great orme tomorrow – I will need to study the weather forecast. I may do the next stage instead and come back to it – if the wind drops later in the week the great orme would be much more pleasant!)

Day eighteen to twenty (23-25August) Walk Day 5 and 6

Day 18 Walk day 5 Prestatyn to Towyn

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Phone stats: 19337 steps, 8.17 miles, walking time 2hr 54 minutes

Parked in the same spot in Prestatyn with a view to getting the bus back – giving me total flexibility on how far to go. Starting touching post touched and off I set.  Walking into the wind as before and all promenade or shared bicycle path, so stuck with my trainers (which also helped with my blister issues!). It was blustery, and the order of the day was a woolly hat and fingerless gloves, and my better wind and water proof jacket.

Made good time to Rhyl, but then was somewhat flummoxed by not being able to find a coffee emporium (all the potential sources were shut or boarded up), eventually I found one open near the sea life centre. To be fair it was hardly conditions to bring out the crowds but this is a seaside town just before a bank holiday!! After coffee Rhyl continued for a least another mile, and then promenade changed to cycle track on the edge of a series of large static caravan parks. Eventually I ran out of steam near a fun fair at Towyn, and marked a touching spot and headed through the fun fair, over a railway bridge and back up to the main road to get the bus back to Prestatyn.

This turned about to be a 2 bus trip, one to Rhyl, and then a different one to Prestatyn (which was faulty and had to go back to the depot for reasons that were not clearly explained but eventually we got back to Prestatyn). On the second run through Rhyl I spotted a shop with fabulous inflatable thunderbirds 1 and 3 outside (about 3ft high) (sorry the picture is blurred I was on the bus!)

After all the delay – I walked back to the car from the bus stop in torrential rain!

Walk Week One statistics I have walked 43.42 miles of the welsh coast path from Chester to Prestatyn (102,698 steps). I am amazed I have managed this much but it is very flat and very easy going (much of it on a shared coastal path/cycle way) – if you are in to cycling this would be just as much fun as walking!

Day 19

Shifting of base camp from Gwaesgynor near Prestatyn to Glasinfryn about 3 miles from Bangor. Had a quick trip to the National Trust garden at Bodnant. It’s a magnificent place, much expanded since my last visit in 1992. Didn’t last long as the pollen levels were too much!!! Had my first bara brith in the NT café on this trip to wales, before heading on to the supermarket and Bangor.

The new residence is very comfortable and has free range chickens roaming around the outside. It also benefits from wifi – which is very welcome. I am comfortably settled in and unpacked ready to get back on the trail tomorrow. They had also made me a whole bara brith loaf to enjoy, so I had my second bit of the day with my tea! In the competition, NT bara brith was better but not by much.

 

Day 20 Walk day 6 Towyn to Old Colwyn

Phone stats: 18372 steps, 7.76miles, walking time 2hr 45 minutes

Not feeling very lively (with some after effects of too much bara brith!) – added at least another mile to the total distance today hooking up with buses, toilets and car parks at the beginning and the end etc. It was blustery (walking into the wind yet again) but dry through out and increasingly sunny. It was another day on the shared cycle coast path/cycle path and trainers. I had a very welcome coffee stop in Abergele after about 2 miles.

There were a number of boards describing the wild life of this area of the coast line. I did see a lot of oyster catchers and cormorants. There was another bird swimming in the sea I couldn’t identify (sadly I have left my bird book at home) – I will see what I can find out to identify it on the internet later. The boards also suggested there could be seals so there was a lot of ‘seal watch’ going on but no seals. I started to be less believing when the final one of these nature boards I saw today said there could be otters too!! I didn’t think it was really the right terrain for seals – let alone the elusive otter (seals in the wild I have seen many times but I have never seen an otter)!

On the outskirts of Old Colwyn I had had enough for the day – found a touching post and headed inland to get the bus. Bought a new weekly rover ticket as the last one had expired (it had more than paid for itself).  Sadly, I will get beyond the arriva bus area by the end of next week all being well. I have to say the bus app has been a revelation – I particularly like the live map facility (which enables me to work out how long I am going to have to wait). In this instance the buses from Llandudno to Rhyl are every 10 minutes so it was not long!

When walking in this linear way you get a real sense of the distance travelled as the next place gets nearer and the stuff travelled through gets further away (and taking 25 minutes in a bus to get back to my starting point is very satisfying). On my next walking day (Monday) – I will park in Llandudno, and get the bus back to Old Colwyn and pick up the route again.

Tomorrow worship at Bangor cathedral beckons at a very civilised 11am.

Day seventeen and eighteen (21-22 August) Walk Day 3-4
Day 17 Flint Castle to Llanerch y Mor (near the fun ship)
Phone stats (slightly unreliable!): 22114 steps, 9.34 miles, walking time 3hrs 16 minutes
I parked again at Flint Castle, touched the touching post and resolved to get the bus back from where ever I got too, and also to buy some lunch en route. I am very limited on what I can carry currently – and I can manage a snack, plus various essentials in my bumbag. As many of you will know, I am not gifted in the travelling light department, and am frequently challenged by Jesus sending out the disciples two by two in Luke 9 and 10 with so little! This time I also took my walking poles with me (as I knew the terrain though still very flat was going to be more uneven). I am a late convert to these things, but they definitely help with propulsion and overall stability!
It was warm and sunny and this was a lovely walk all in all, scenic estuary on the right and dodging various chemical plants and there was lots of evidence of a previous industrial past generally to the left. The highlight of the morning was an impressive fire beacon dragon at Bettisfield. I was less happy with the solitary soldier I found because it looked very real until I got closer to it!
I was just beginning to feel hungry, and I had already consumed my snack, when the path (very scenic estuary etc.. on the right) passed the back of Greenfield amenity site (on the left). I had literally just thought I will need to divert to get some lunch soon, when lo – there was a sandwich van for the amenity site workers in the car park… My lucky day and I was soon munching a very acceptable cheese ploughmans sandwich followed by a very yummy bit of rocky road! I gave thanks for my good fortune! God is good – all the time!
I did another couple of miles, before giving up for the day. By then there was definitely something uncomfortable with my right foot, and Compeed was deployed. Touching spot touched by the fun ship (currently being renovated so not much fun!)
Day 16 Llanerch Y Mor (by the fun ship) to Prestatyn
Phone stats (slightly unreliable!): 27514 steps, 11.62 miles, walking time 4hr 19 minutes
Parked in Prestatyn, and got the bus back to LLanerch Y Mor, touching post suitably touched and off I went with similar terrain as yesterday. Sadly this didn’t last and there was a long stretch on the road (about 3 miles) and I was glad when the next village marked the end of this. I had my snack on a convenient bench, and had a long conversation with a chap who joined me. The locals are very friendly and very keen to know what I am doing. I have now had 4 conversations that have pretty rapidly got to ‘you don’t sound like you come from round here’, so I have been able to wave the flag for South Nutfield and Surrey more generally! Just before lunch I reached the point of Ayr, through another park by a chemical works, with interesting displays and sculptures. The animal lover in me, really liked the chap giving the horse an apple! I suspect the apple may have disappeared previously as the stalk of it was a screw clearly holding it in place.
The point of Ayr marks the end of the estuary of the river Dee, and the path turns west literally turning a corner. After some very nice lunch (this time in Lola and Suggs beach café – Lola and Suggs turned out to be pugs – so there’s one for Nelson!), I started the trek back to Prestatyn – first admiring the abandoned lighthouse. I knew this was a bit further than I really wanted to go (but the bus links weren’t very good at this point – this is most unusual!). It turned into a bit of a 4 mile marathon, full into the wind (which was whipping up the sand) and for the last ½ hour the driving rain that had been threatened started.
I don’t intend to walk anything like as far tomorrow and I will I hope be much less challenged by the delights of promenade walking through various seaside places – Rhyl, Kinmel bay, Towyn, and so on! Another touching post identified for the end of this day and a pack of more appropriate compeed plasters acquired and one has been applied.