14,200 steps , 10,000m, 6 miles! Plus a mile I didn’t count in on Tuesday but now linking the route
In the end I decided after careful studying of the Wales Coast walk book that I was not up for ‘several precipitous havens’ for the gap in the route I hadn’t done and opted to do a lane walk to join where I walked on Tuesday to where I have subsequently walked this week. In the end I drove to Moylegrove with a view to getting the bus back. (It turned out I had misread the timetable but more of that later). I decided to count the mile I did down to the path as part of this day to connect all the parts of the walk
It turned out that there was a very steep ascent out of the village (1 in 5 in places) and I was soon warmed up. I was very conscious that I was able to look up and around as I was walking on lanes rather than concentrating on my feet, and it was much easier going (apart from the first pull out of the village). The vast majority of the ascent was in the first couple of miles, and then a long slow descent to the coast at Newport Sands.
I found I was on the cycle route for a good chunk of this. This was a bit weird especially with passing packs of cyclists where the first person shouted ‘person’ to warn the rest. The more polite ones, then said ‘good morning’ as well – but this all made me jump a couple of times. I took in the joy of the colour and the hedgerows and the views emerging across to the PreseliHills.
Periodically I could also see the headland where I had my difficulties on Tuesday – and the series of undulations one after another follow the zigzag strata on the cliffs. Rather sobering! I was glad I had made the choice I had. There was also another bull (with his ladies) safely the other side of a fence!
I eventually found a coffee stop at the junction where the wedding decorated farm machinery had been last Saturday – and it was then I realised I had read the bus timetable incorrectly. I decided to aim for the 13:07 all the same to take me back to Newport (so I could do some shopping and have lunch) and then get the service going back to Moylegrove from there about 2:30!
I found my touching point rock and I had enough time to contemplate the beach and have a coffee and a flapjack before the Poppit Rocket whisked me first to Newport. I found the various things I needed in Newport, and a nice picnic area to eat my lunch – finished off with an ice cream from near the bus stop (Castle Hotel!). The Poppit Rocket took me back to Moylegrove (but this was a long enough journey to end up feeling queasy) so there was a short delay until I was feeling Ok to drive home
The drive home was delayed by some cows crossing the road – this was not far from the turning to Gethesemene I had also ignored earlier. Who knew Gethesemene was in Pembrokeshire?
I plotted out the miles for the week (which are a bit dodgy based on my steps app) but getting more accurate – I reckon that there is at least a 6% margin of error on the 46 miles I have totted up! Sabbath rest tomorrow. Then on to what the Strumble shuttle can bring to the Welsh coast path adventure as I take up the path from Lower Fishguard on Monday!!!!
Running total 46 miles *at least 6% margin of error!!!.
Decided to have a much less ambitious plan, as I had a few achy muscles and the perils of yesterday were very much on my mind!!! I wanted also to make sure it didn’t happen again, and I was relieved to find the temperature was closer to 70 than to 90 when I stepped outside.
I took the car to Cwm-yr-Eglwys (with a suitable remains of a church in place) after a leisurely start to the day and then tackled the circuit round Dinas head/island. I used a coast path sign as a touching post to start. I took the lower option to get a better view of Needle rock, but was rather underwhelmed, and height had to be gained of course a bit further on. Once I had warmed up, my aches and pains seemed to drift away. It was quite busy with lots of other walkers of all abilities too (and some in MOST unsuitable footwear!).
All the way round I was looking carefully at the cliffs either side of the headland/island to see how it looked (and were there precipitous sections?). It all looked lower than the exploits of yesterday so I decided to do the section from Newport Sands round to Pwllgwaelod tomorrow. I got to the top – with a suitable marker and drank in the view once I had got slightly away from the milling throng! Had a coffee sat on a rock with magnificent views in either direction – was a bit troubled by flying ants but all was well with the world.
The descent down the other side was slow on the rocky stretches but generally went well. My map suggested there was a lower route option (but clearly part of that had fallen) and it was no longer available. I found a sign to be the touching point to use on another day and settled on a bench overlooking the bay at Pwllgwaelod for my packed lunch. This was in sight of a very busy pub and there was a definite whiff of fish and chips in the air. I used the convenient toilets and sussed out the bus stop arrangements for picking up the poppet rocket from here tomorrow.
I strolled back along the very convenient flat path between Pwllgwaelod and Cwm-yr-Eglwys, that takes about 15 minutes. Pretty uneventful but nice to see some trees, and a bit of excitement was a diversion around a caravan park at the far end! For completeness I touched my starting touching point and headed off to the Co-op in Fishguard to get some provisions.
Running total 24 miles
Sept 9th – Newport Sands to Pwllgwaelod
21,000 steps 12,970m, 8 miles!
Had a leisurely start as I was aiming for the 10:16 Poppet Rocket from Pwllgwaelod to Newport Sands as my start to the day. This was only about 6 miles from base camp too. It was cooler and raining! I had plenty of time at Pwllgwaelod before the bus came to do all the necessary. It took about 20 minutes to get to my destination, which was enough time to feel queasy! I availed myself of the facilities at Newport Sands (as well as marvelling at the crowded car park of the Cat Rock Café!). I used a rock as a starting touching point and set off!
The first stretch was round the mouth of the river Nyfer including a stretch across a deserted golf course. There was a steady drizzle so I was bedecked in all my waterproof stuff. The tide was well in and I was quite near the bridge over the river when I was startled by a seal! I crossed the bridge and then walked the other side – which was prime dog walking territory. By this stage it was raining a bit harder. I reached Parrog (and by this time it was very heavy rain) and in a very wet state I diverted into Morwellyan café. When I got it the coffee was excellent but there was a long, long wait to be served.
I had an interesting conversation with a couple from Cardiff, whose church was preparing to have a refugee family. They had also seen Michael Portillo (and film crew) the day before as he is doing a walking programme in Wales. I hope he enjoys his welsh coast path experiences as much as I have. Nice to think of him following in my footsteps!
The rain had eased, and I set off initially through the edge of Parrog (Newport), a little stretch on the beach and then up on to a low level cliff. After the rain I had a few issues with my boots and paused to do some adjustments. I was concerned about blisters with soaked boots (and had spotted something heading in that direction on my big toe) which I did not want to get any worse. I wound around the cliffs, and the bracken was beginning to look particularly autumnal.
I stopped for lunch on my first stony beach lunch spot on this holiday. The rain fell heavily but there was lots to watch, a family of gulls, another very persistent seal and finally a bit of a stand off between the gull parents and a heron who tried to settle. They successfully scared it off after about 10 minutes.
I carried on, there was another descent to a further stony bay with a lime kiln and stone stacks (plus a heron probably the one I saw earlier!). A final section up on the cliffs included a wide grassy path. This led out into the road and the descent into Cwm-yr-Ergwys. I had a brief sit on a bench (but sadly it rained again!) – so I walked back to Pwllgwaelod on the flat path I had used yesterday – I connected with the touching point and was pleased with how it had gone and all was well!
A quick trip into Fishguard to get some compeed plasters followed (as I had not managed to pack my supply!)
Running total 31 miles (-1 for mile repeated)
Sept 10th – Pwllgwaelod to Lower Fishguard
18,700 steps, 13,100m, 8 miles on the route!
Set off a little earlier than really necessary, so I could park the car at the old fort above Fishguard and walk down to the bus stop at lower Fishguard (establishing a touching point on a flower tub near the bus stop) and then waiting for the Poppet Rocket. It was running a little late and I was the only customer for the ride from there back to Pwllgwaelod. I had a chat with the driver about my plans for the day, and he discussed his experience of the walk I was going to do. Thankfully it was a shorter bus ride today – so not enough time to end up feeling queasy!
I availed myself of the facilities at Pwllgwaelod, touched the touching point established there on Wednesday and set off up to the cliffs. Whilst I was climbing some horses were being exercised in the bay – which was interesting to watch. It was quite an up and down route but mostly reasonably easy going. I had a coffee on one of the beaches sat on a rock. Lovely views continued as the path continued round the ‘crenulated’ coastline described in my Welsh Coast Path walk book.
It was overcast with occasional drizzle, but as I progressed it got drier. The views were fantastic, and I saw the Irish ferry arrive and leave as I was making progress. There was a short stretch through a caravan park, and then the going suddenly got a lot rockier and more tricky. I took my time over this stretch which turned out to be about ½ a mile of more challenging terrain, until it settled back into an undulating grassy path. The path wound its way around the coast line and I saw my first bull (from the path with a good fence between me and it!).
It ended at the fort above Fishguard – with splendid views and cannons (and a view showing the path travelled! One final slope up to the car park and mission accomplished!!!
This was quite a leisurely walk – it was hotter than I liked, so it was good to take time and drink in the scenery. I kicked off from the car park in Cardigan, touched the tourist poster touching point and set off. The first section after a few busy streets, winded up a track between the houses, and out into fields mostly dedicated to market gardening. There was one with a handful of curious sheep and 2 calves who were blocking the exit kissing gate. In the end I persuaded them to move!
Eventually I dropped into St Dogmael’s. This also meant I had made it in to Pembrokeshire, and this was evident in the change of look and feel of the route signs – with green based celtic crosses as well as the standard blue shell signs! I happened rapidly in the café next to the abbey ruins. I had visited previously and enjoyed a very civilised cappuccino and excellent carrot cake. It was all very pleasant, and I had a brief and rather warm wander around the ruins (there was a very chatty man doing Tai Chi!). I escaped via the church yard.
The next bit of the route was on roads and paths through St Dogmael’s, and eventually ended up at the side of the main B road (sadly without a pavement). I wasn’t very happy about this as it wasn’t wide enough for 2 cars to pass each other in places, so I was an added hazard. There was at least a mile like this. Doesn’t happen very often on this route!
Eventually a bench appeared by an alternative signed path, and I sat down for a while to enjoy my carried coffee (decaf) – while contemplating what to do. This was a good vantage point, as I saw both the bus I was going to use to get back to Cardigan and the Poppet Rocket (3 times a day coastal walking bus) – which proved the buses were running! I decided to take the alternative route – around the back of Poppet Sands, a farm and then through a large caravan site. It was certainly less dangerous than dodging the traffic.
After a return trip to the toilets, (after a particular wet walk in Pembrokeshire in 1990s with Carole), I touched a suitable touching point I will pick up tomorrow. I found the bus stop, ate my lunch when waiting, and took the bus back to Cardigan (first bus ride since 2020!). This included buying a rover ticket for the next week – which will hopefully be used on the various bus links I will need.
As it was still early, back on the bench, I had decided to go to Mwnt. Had to be done at some point. It was very crowded, pretty hot and there were people in the sea! Mwnt is deeply beautiful, but reminds me greatly of Jane, and is the second place where she is remembered. After some time to ponder at the spot, and the cliff beyond, I sought out an ice cream and contemplated some people looking into the distance beyond the refreshments hut. A brief wander was rewarded by the sighting of dolphins, playing further down the coast. I have seen them in the bay before (but I suspect the people in the sea were not to their taste). It lifted my spirits no end!
A drive home, where I trusted to satnav initially (which was a bit hairy getting away from Mwnt) back to the A487!
Running total 10.5 miles
Sept 7th
21,100 steps, 15,200, 9.5 miles on the route ( this is much longer than I anticipated it would be and does not include the mile to the coastal path in the first instance!)
Early start to be ready to get the Poppet Rocket at 9:10 at Poppet Sands ( a good half an hour drive away!). I was also trying to start early to avoid the worst of the heat. This turned out to be not early enough!!! While waiting for the bus I got chatting about the plans for the day ahead, with a couple also going to Moylgrove and walking back.
It was at least a mile (not included in the above) to walk up and down to the coast path, eventually coming out at Ceibwr bay. On the final section down to the bay I got chatting to a woman I initially saw sitting in a tree. She suggested a potential escape route if the going got too much in the heat. She even took the trouble to show me on the map!
The first climb out of the bay was a tough one but I made steady progress on the initial section of the walk – which consisted of narrow edgy paths about 1/3 from the top of grassy cliffs. There was mostly a good bank on the sea side to prevent you falling in! I took a while to find a suitable coffee stop – where I could see the view and was vaguely shady as the heat was intense. I was rewarded with seal sightings at this point – which was lovely! There was some very discouraging signage at a couple of spots where the banks had eroded or cliff falls had taken place.
It was going reasonably well at this point, but as I progressed, I realised that a large up and down was ahead, and then the next bit looked quite a lot more undulating. I didn’t hesitate which I now regret. I like to keep to a plan as you probably know. The first up and down was gruelling and precipitous! I wish I had realised how difficult the undulating section was going to be. Each of the 3 downs then ups, went further down precipitously, and further up in the same manner! By the third one I was finding the going very tough. I was over half way on my route and I had missed the exit point discussed by the tree lady earlier. I stopped frequently, arrow prayers for strength were even more frequent and various passing walkers were very encouraging and kind.
It was really the heat that was the main problem and the slope (and the previous 3) were out of the wind so it was blistering. I think it was around 90!, and since my thyroid surgery my temperature regulation at extremes has been a bit dodgy. Eventually I made it up this final slope after several stops, onto much more idyllic cliff walking conditions – carriage drive grassy paths with gentle undulations. I had at this point reached the highest point (Pen yr Afr) on the cliffs in Pembrokeshire! Progress was not quick but it was much more manageable and I was back in the breeze which helped hugely with my temperature control. I passed the abandoned coast guard station (which is as far as Carole and I got back in the day – we turned back as the rain was torrential!), but I didn’t find the shepherd’s hut we had used for shelter for lunch, rather unsuccessfully as I remember it. I have a lasting memory of rain dripping in soup!!
I eventually found a lunch spot on a low wall with a good view, which was ‘shadyish’ but also in the breeze, which helped with temperature regulation!! I was blessed with more seals and then the joy of more passing dolphins (4-5) in a group, which were again motivational for the final push. Despite seeing a sign indicating the distance was 1 and ¾ miles well before the coast guard station! It was in fact more like 3 miles from this point, on good paths, a messy farming area, shady tracks and the road. It was mostly going gently down to sea level and eventually poppet sands beach. I had a much needed raspberry sorbet cone and a large quantity of cold water at the new improved café!! before touching my touching point and driving home.
I acknowledge I can be single minded about stuff and I still love a good plan (even though covid has robbed me of so many!!) But I promise after this experience to be much more careful especially on hot days (and take more time over route decisions). The mistake was really to have done the first big up and down in that heat(!)– as this was just after the exit route I could have taken or I could have gone back at that point too!!! Note to self – listen to women who sit in trees.
I haven’t done this for a while! And now I am back on the trail of the Welsh Coast path, picking up where I left off in September 2018 on my sabbatical adventure walk. As I was travelling here I am conscious that quite a lot has changed since then. I have moved and changed role, but more seismically the world has shifted on its axis in the wake of the global pandemic. Wales comes into focus with greater attention to precautions still in place. Sometimes it is hard to compute all that life was and the things we didn’t think about back in the heady days of 2018!!
Sept 4th. A brief stop at Gwbert to get back in touch with my last touching point in the 2018 trail. The wall on the way to the Gwbert Hotel complex, where the coast path turns up the road towards Mwnt. On my final day I walked back from here to Aberporth! It was a glorious, sunny day and a pretty strenuous walk as I remember it! I walk back to the view point where the car is parked and establish my next touching point by the entrance! (can’t have been even a mile!).
I drove on to establish base camp for the next couple of weeks, which is just beyond Newport in Pembrokeshire. It is a comfortable holiday let, with good facilities and fantastic views (particularly from upstairs across to Dinas head across overgrown fields with horses).
Sept 5th. A there and back again walk as the buses don’t run on a Sunday! I parked the car in Cardigan, and establish the touching point to go on from tomorrow and then walked back to the Gwbert view point. Fine views of the estuary of the river Teifi abounded and varied landscape included a couple of fields of maize (very North by North West). There was one field of bullocks that were sheltering in a shady spot. I asked them politely to stay there and they obliged. I should perhaps learn how to say that in Welsh too! Wildlife of the day was butterflies and I saw at least 7 different species.
It was warm and sunny from time to time (and by the time I was heading back a bit too warm and more sunny). There was about a mile each way on the pavement by the road but the views help keep the motivation up! I have my first outside coffee at the Gwbert view point and watch people coming and going!
On the way back, I spotted some impressive chain saw sculptures in the garden of a house, made all the more realistic by the sound of chain sawing going on in the garage (and large bits of wood awaiting attention!) I found a slightly different route back which wound down into Cardigan above the car park (and avoided the field of bullocks I had walked through on the way out!).
I am having some difficulty with my step counting apps, the long used Samsung app is now under counting regularly and said I had only walked just over 2 miles all day! The new step count app – says as coast path steps (the outbound leg was 8,000 steps covering 5.6km 3 ½ miles – my overall step count for the day 19,000 covering 13.3km 8.3 miles including a trip around Tesco’s and general mooching!). I had also seen a sign saying Gwbert was 3 ½ miles at the start – so I am hoping the new step count app is about right!)
It was very good to start, I am slightly apprehensive about the terrain and my fitness, but it was very good to be beginning once again. Tomorrow I need to acquire a rover bus ticket, and will take my first ride of the week on a bus (maybe even the Poppit Rocket). This will take me into Pembrokeshire as the other side of the Teifi estuary beckons. One more step along the world I go!
Friday dawned with a swirling mist over the loch. I particularly like this bunny shot too. I was up early so I could be in Stornoway for 9am for the Hebridean adventures day trip to the Shiant isles. I was excited at the prospect of the scenery, and wildlife watching opportunities, and also apprehensive (due to my lack of sailing prowess). Any way all present and correct at 9am and by 9:20am had been briefed on safety and wildlife, and suitably attired in lifejackets etc. All 12 on the trip were in the capable hands of Colin the skipper, John the wildlife guide, and Anna the crew!
I began up top in one of the seats, as we left the harbour. Immediately we were seeing birds, seals and porpoises. The array of birds rose as we travelled and included gannets, puffins, kittiwakes, guillemots, razor bills, terns and so on. With out an all singing and dancing camera, I struggled a bit with the small birds (the puffins in particular). We lingered a couple of times on the way to the shiant isles, one to see a minky whale (I didn’t see it) and to find a couple of lots of dolphins – by the end we had dolphin encounters four times – all fabulous!
The water was pretty calm, with patches of deep blue, the wispy clouds lifted and we hugged the coast mostly so it wasn’t too bad for those of us a bit prone to ‘mal de mere’. Sitting was better than standing. Various jelly fish also passed by – some quite large! Anyway by lunch time we arrived at the Shiant isles, I cannot really do justice to the sheer numbers of the birds all around us, and the magnificence of the scenery and rock formations. We moored for a while surrounded by birds to eat lunch – I seem to be better at pictures of razor bills than puffins, and then we did a complete circuit of the island complex.
Post lunch I was not feeling so good, and mostly sat in the calmest place on the boat – a bench on the bottom deck at the back. After our cruise round the islands, we set out in the direction back but much more out to sea. By this stage it was windier, and I was struggling abit. The lovely Anna the crew, gave me a cup of lemon and ginger tea, which settled things. I was best off sitting down at the various levels in the boat and as central as possible. By this stage I was a bit more wrapped up against the sun and wind (bit of a gangster look with my bandanas but glad I did – as my cheeks are still pink today (I think wind rather than sunburn!). I missed the second sighting of the minky whale too sadly before the restorative powers of the ginger tea took hold but only 3 people saw it!
Irrespective of my difficulties, I cannot understate what an amazing experience this was, and we finished off with looking at 2 sea eagles nests (and young through binoculars) and lovely sightings of the adult birds (on a fence post at the top of the cliff in the middle!).
Another aspect of all this was being able to look across to Skye for much of the trip – it was lightly illuminated and hazy so hard to really get a picture of the effect. It took me back to Jane and my trip, and our thoughts from Skye looking across at Harris and Lewis in 2011. There was something quite magical about it and helpful that is hard to explain.
We finally got back at 5:40 and I was very relieved to be back on terra firma. There was quite a lot to do at base, as it was a very early start and everything bar the bear essentials needed to be packed, and the car loaded. I set alarms, wrote myself a list of what I must do before leaving and eventually got to bed to find, when I put my head on the pillow, I still felt like I was on the boat!
Wildlife of the day LOTS!!!
Saturday morning dawned early, I awoke as you do 10 minutes before the alarm at 4:40. I was on the road shortly after 5:15. I had my first coffee of the day in the queue on the harbourside, and breakfast while the boat was being loaded. I had a much easier crossing (tactically I sat in the middle at the back of the boat in a recliner – mistakenly I had thought it was the front) but it was good to see Lewis disappear from sight. The boat was busy including a couple of sports teams, and the lewis pipe band in suitable kilts, as well as a lot of people with dogs. I had a coffee from the café after the queue had subsided, and I avoided the area serving bacon sandwiches with black pudding!
I was disembarked by 9:45 and I started the long drive south. The scenery was stunning with a cloudy cover this time, and much warmer. It was a bit bizarre to be driving through the cairngorms when it was humid and 24 degrees Centigrade. I stopped at Kinguissie to avail myself of the facilities. The car park was free but the facilities cost 50p! (they were very nice). I had my second thermos coffee, and then carried on. I drove on and the heavy showers began. It was dramatic, but I was intrigued how low some of the rivers and lochs were (though in parts of Scotland there has been flash flooding).
I pulled of the A9 towards Denning to find a lunch spot, and ended up at a farmshop/café (it was much more café than farm shop). I think it was very clear to me from there that I was no longer on Lewis. There were lots of people, it was hot, there was a field of wheat, and trees. I watched the swallows, as I ate a rather tasty lunch with very naughty double fried chips (!!!)
The final 100 or so miles had more rain and more low cloud, so the last rather scenic bit in Dumfries and Galloway was rather obscured. I was definitely getting tired, and glad to pull in to junction 16 of the M74, to spend the night at the days inn at annadale water. Door to door was about 12 hours! I stayed here with Jane and Ginnie the dog on the way back from Skye in 2011. In fact, we stopped here more than once as it was good for the dog with a lake to walk around. I have thought about them both quite a lot as I have enjoyed Lewis/Harris. They both would have loved it. For old times sake I did a circuit of the lake between the showers. This may have been a mistake as it was very ‘midgy’ as the wind had dropped and it was damp from the rain. Good to see a red beak on the lake (oyster catcher) and for old times sake a marsh orchid, which I have added to wildlife of the day with the swallows mentioned earlier and some lovely foxgloves.
The day was set fairer and warmer. There was low cloud that lifted as I drove done to Harris. I decided to attempt Hushinish. Once I got to within a couple of miles of Tarbet this meant turning off down the road that had previously also led to the eagle observatory track. This was an ‘old harris road’ – windy, lots of blind summits and bends. Initially I was following a cement mixer (rather him than me!) as he was as wide as the road. Thankfully after the first few miles it got less near a precipitous edge but no easier to drive, and then after about 6 miles it got worse, as the surface deteriorated and the helpful white lines to show where the edge was disappeared. There was a stunning stretch through an estate down by a waterfall and eventually we arrived at Hushinish. I didn’t really remember it at all, and clearly things had been added, not least toilets and facilities for motor homes! (though I would not have wanted to drive one of those down that road!). I had a coffee to calm down, and then attempted the track, after a delightful section across the machair…. which was a sea of colour with the biggest buttercups I have ever seen and awash with marsh orchids.
There were two ways to the deserted beach I had gone to with my university buddies 24 years ago. I remember it being quite a hard walk but I wonder if we approached it from the other way. I had doubts about the track I tried from the start, and in the end decided against it – lots of jumping from rock to rock right near a precipitous edge is really not me!!! It was a bit disappointing but sense prevailed, and there were lots of compensations. For starters the view across to the island and the beaches beyond was absolutely stunning…. I went around the easier headland and had my second coffee whilst the gannets put on a spectacular display against the panoramic view. It was like watching a firework display – unbelievably beautiful… My heart soared!
On the other side of the headland I found an idyllic beach and finally ate lunch on the hoof for only the third time on this trip (it’s generally been too cool and one of those three I got very wet!!). It was a relatively balmy 19 degrees in the sun today! I walked the length of the beach and back again to the car. What a fantastic place!
I gently drove back on the windy road, the views even more spectacular going back with the backdrop of Harris and the sea lochs all around, and all but a few misty clouds on the very high bits had lifted. I stopped a couple of times to take pictures, and also stopped at the refreshment stop just after the mountain road to get the view down loch seaforth.
I went back to the visitors centre on Loch Erisort, and finally saw my first ever ‘wild’ otter. It came up twice, second time diving down showing its ‘whippy’ tail! I was beyond pleased…… I stayed there for quite a while, hoping for more sightings but sadly not!
Wildlife of the day OTTER!!!! (sadly no pics), amazing firework gannets, and the machair, buttercups and orchids. The toe of my boots shows you the size of the buttercups!
Tuesday dawned cloudy and cooler, so I decided to visit the blackhouse museum at Garenin and explore the coastal walking route options from there. By the time I got there the sun was out and the cloud had dispersed – (it did return later). I decided to start with the walk and the path was rocky and rapidly ascending, this time following green and yellow guidance markers. I got to the summit of Aird Mheadhonach, and looked beyond unable to find the next waymarker pole. The views were stunning but I wasn’t happy to stray from the route so decided to turned back. Green posts in the prevailing scenery seemed counter intuitive to put it mildly – and they were in a poor state of repair. I had a coffee at the summit cairn and just drank in the fantastic view too.
After my descent, I also had a coffee in the cafe and a look around the black house museum and the beach on my return. It is hard to imagine how tough it must have been to live in this way in close knit communities, and that they had only been vacated finally in the 1970s. It was good to see the enterprising use of a couple of the blackhouses to provide accommodation (both a hostel and a holiday let!) too. I was also very taken with a deep pink harris tweed handbag in the inevitable gift shop, which set me thinking, but it wasn’t the sort of style I would really use.
I went a bit further down the coast, to try the coast path again, this time in an area where otters were very likely. I tried the coast path again (this time the posts were faded red and yellow). It started off ok, and after an easy grassy path to start and a difficult style, I made it to the top of the low cliff to find yet again the next posts were invisible. Frustrating!!! I walked back and went round the sandy bay to the other side, keeping a weather eye out for the elusive otters. I had a comfort break and a coffee out of the cool wind on the far side of the beach on otter watch. Only to find a camper van had pulled in behind me and were watching my every move! Not ideal….
Wildlife of the day – nothing I hadn’t seen before attempts at machair shots with marsh orchids and also the lovely yellow irises that abound
Wednesday was overcast virtually all day, cool again and with a cold wind. I had found a couple of places to walk on the road down to Harris, one just in Lewis and the other in Harris. I started at the Aline Community forest, it was nice to walk amongst the trees, but the trails had clearly seen better days, and I had to guess which way to go. The toilets were also a no go zone! Finally got down to the Lochside (Loch seaforth) and had a coffee – seeing an impressive Heron.
I moved on to the other end of the track at Bagh Bhiogadall that leads eventually to the Eagle observatory I was at previously. This was a typical Scottish walk – the outward leg walking up from the loch into the cool wind and the return back down to the loch with the wind at your back. It was a rough and rocky track – at least there was no potential for getting lost! It was overcast and at times a fine drizzle. I met 2 other groups of people on the trail, one of whom suggested I try the visitor’s centre at Loch Eireasort. (It was eagle territory but not eagle weather).
It was too cool to do anything other than eat lunch in the car, and I went on to the suggested visitor’s centre. I saw an eagle virtually immediately and when I was leaving. After a warming coffee stop in the café, I spent about ½ an hour on the otter viewing terrace (before the cold got the better of me). No otters seen sadly yet again! The information in the café suggested that there are about 10 breeding pairs of eagles on that particular peninsula, and as the eagle flies that is actually not very far from where I am staying. So it is not implausible that the large raptor I saw on the first day I was here was one of them!
On a quest to follow up on the harris tweed bag possibilities, I went into Stornoway, and soon found one of a more suitable design, and more purple than girly pink!. As the weather forecast for Friday is better, I also booked a boat trip to the Sliant Isles to see puffins and other sea creatures. Let’s hope it stays calm as I am not a great sailor. Note: when I say the weather is better be clear, not the Saharan heat here but a comparatively balmy 18 degrees centigrade!! (It was 13 today with a chilly north eastly wind!)
Wildlife of the day – heard a cuckoo a number of times on my second walk, and eagle sightings at Eireasort Visitor centre, plus an impressive mushroom. Sorry my eagle picture is very unconvincing!!
Collected Athene from the airport on Friday evening, and caught up over supper and with a good bottle of wine provided in the holiday let. The next morning we set of to Harris – initially we went to the parking place for the North Harris Eagle observatory at Miabhaig. The last few miles of the drive were on a very windy single track road with passing places, which left a lot to be desired. After a restorative coffee, we set off up the track. The obligatory orchids were evident. The 2km walk turned out to be closer to 3km, and eventually we rounded a corner to find the very smart eagle observatory. The valley got more and more wild and isolated as we walked up it, but relative to other paths it was a good solid track and relatively easy going! In the 90 minutes we were there, we were joined by a selection of other tourists. About 10 minutes before we had planned to leave, by chance I saw a large bird take off from the mountain side, and rapidly rise on the thermals. As we were watching this golden eagle, we saw it was joining another one who was higher up soaring. Within 5 minutes they were so high we couldn’t see them. In the pictures below the black spec is the rising eagle I saw first (I know it is completely unconvincing – phone cameras are not designed for rapidly rising eagles!). It was a breathtaking sight. Athene filled in the visitors book, and morale was high as we strode back down the track.
We went on to Tarbert, and stopped at Hebscape for some late lunch. This café/gallery was full of fantastic pictures and other items. We had some extremely tasty cheese scones.
We drove on to Luskentyre, and were once again blown away by this fantastic beach – with golden sand, turquoise sea and some interesting wildlife (including a very nosy seal who came quite close into the shore (and then vanished as soon as phones were brandished)), a jellyfish and a field awash with orchids. We walked and talked on the beach for about an hour before heading back (via the Harris tweed/knit shop).
It was a very satisfying day and eagles clearly get star billing as wildlife of the day!
Sunday we went across the bridge to Bernera, in order to do a walk in my Lewis/Harris walk book and on a leaflet we found in the holiday let – there was some discrepancy over the length of the walk – the book said 6.5 miles and the leaflet 7.5. This was easily the best day weatherwise I have had – and was a positively tropical 21 when we eventually finished the walk! Any way back at the beginning – just before we set off, Athene spotted another eagle, this time we think as it had a white tail, it was a white-tailed eagle! This was a good starter for an excellent day.
The initial leg of the walk after a short road section, was very picturesque but quite hard going. Lots of ups and down, rocky and boggy bits. We were following a trail of waymarker posts (without these I am sure we would have got very lost). We stopped after about an hour for a coffee, and tried to work out where we had got to. It was hard to believe we hadn’t yet got to Tobson (and we had certainly covered the distance Tobson was supposed to be). Much to our surprise we in fact didn’t get there for another 90 minutes. I had a bit of a wobble at this point, but after an ascent and lunch overlooking a lochan and the sea, I was glad we had carried on (the rewards of a splendid walk even if a long one are many). We eventually got to a beautiful looking beach and reconstruction of an iron age house (with toilets and highland cows), knowing we had to do 4.8km on the road to get back to where we had started. We had one more break, again looking over a loch and the sea. We had another eagle encounter overhead as we were on the road, I spotted this one, purely as I was trying to work out what was upsetting a very noisy oyster catcher (red beak) – It was soon apparent what was upsetting it as the eagle circled overhead!!.
We got back to the car close to 5pm, and my pedometer said we had in fact done 9.5 miles!! This mean the walk book itself was nearly a third out! I was very glad it was a shorter drive back (only about ½ an hour) – though more than enough time for me to get rather stiff! We were also pleased to find the tennis was still going strong, so saw the end of the Men’s doubles final at Queen’s.
Wildlife of the day: …. Eagles (and yet more orchids!), and some gannets too
On Monday, I took Athene to Lews castle grounds, for a leg stretch before taking her back to the airport. It has been good to catch up with her and share the joys of Harris/Lewis. How much life has changed for both of us (and our lifestyles) since our first visit in 1995!
I went on to the An Rubha peninsula as the sunny morning turned cooler and rapidly to persistent rain. At Tiumpan head, as it threw it down, I contemplated the signs saying this was the best place on Lewis to see minky whales (and other sea creatures) – it was not the weather for lingering!! I also went to the new memorial for those who perished on the HMY Iolaire on 1st Jan 1919. This is a chilling story of how so many returning Hebridean service men lost their lives so close to home (a couple of miles from the safety of Stornoway harbour).
I ate lunch in the car, and then returned to base to wait the rain out, and make a few plans for my next 4 days here (and then the long and winding road back)!
Wildlife of the day : more orchids and the sea creatures I didn’t actually see!!!
So after a lot of driving on Wednesday, I drove only a few miles on Thursday. Initially I went to Marybank picnic area, so I could enjoy walking in the castle grounds of Lews castle. This turned out to be very scenic, initially alongside the river Creed, until reaching the coast. It was tamer and ideal territory for red squirrels but none were seen sadly. As I saw no other squirrels, I am convinced there must be reds as they are much shyer than their grey counterparts (especially the South Nutfield ones!). I encountered and used my first woowoo (which is a waterless toilet). The signs kept saying that the woodland café was 2km away (I had in fact covered over 5km when I finally found it), complete with a King and Queen Lewis chessmen – which had seen better days!
After a necessary coffee stop, I used the ordnance survey app on my phone to help me get back to the Marybank picnic area. Throughout the weather was very changeable, with frequent short showers, which as the day progressed became rather longer spells of rain. After a trip to the co-op in Stornoway and as the weather was deteriorating I returned to base and enjoyed some embroidery accompanied by tennis on the telly! Good to see Andy Murray in action (with significant glimmers of his old self), but do worry about him falling over now as well as everything else!
changeable weather !!
Various wildlife of the day contenders. I know I am not supposed to like them but the ‘wild’ rhodis are spectacular here currently. I also like these young fir cones, and yet another orchid. Red squirrels were elusive as previously mentioned but I did finish my embroidery one too!
Friday dawned brighter with a drier forecast (in fact when I was out and about it only rained on me once and for all of 5 minutes). However I was still fully clad in my waterproofs as the wind remains cool to put it mildly! I drove up to Eoropaidh and followed a walk from the ‘Western Isles walks book’. There was a frustrating encounter just before I set off with a locked toilet (and I don’t mean because someone was in it).
This turned out to be a glorious and achievable walk taking in the ‘butt’ of Lewis complete with Lighthouse. Initially I met a very interesting cyclist (who had cycled up from Bradford), which was impressive to say the least. Then occasional walkers, a number of whom had chosen to do the walk in the opposite direction to me. This was a much wiser choice than the one I had made as it meant not so much walking straight into the biting cold wind. I had a coffee stop part way round, but this had to be carefully chosen so I was out of the wind too!
I drove into Port Ness to eat my lunch and find a toilet that was open! I was rewarded with a beautiful view over the harbour to the bay. I ate my lunch watching some diving sea birds, because of the spectacular plunging they were indulging in, I think they were gannets, but I was too far away to be certain! I spotted the ‘wobbly dog’ café, and in honour of all my canine buddies felt obliged to have a coffee there (which was very good!). The proprietor like my earlier cyclist turned out to be from Yorkshire (Sheffield this time!).
In terms of wildlife of the day – I saw an interesting bird whilst on the headland, not sure what it was, have consulted the bird book with no success – large brown with a white diagonal stripe on the wings, definitely a ‘raptor’ but know no more than that. It is a bit small in the picture I’m afraid! There were also some fantastic flowers, again I don’t know what they are.
Will be going out again later to collect one of my university buddies from the airport. She also came with me on the 1995 trip, so I am sure there will be some reminiscing!
Tuesday began with a short drive north to Callanish – an easy walk followed from the “Walks in the western isles book” – I bought with Jane on skye in 2011 when we were considering going to Harris and Lewis. This book has sat on a book shelf for the intervening years! This walk went better than my previous effort from the book on Monday, and took in the three stone circles. The last and largest one near the Callanish stones visitor centre was awash with tourists as I arrived just as a coach was unloading. I had been to the visitor centre once before (in fact on the day it was opened by Donnie from Runrig!) and the sign inside showed me that my previous visit to Harris and Lewis was in 1995 so 24 years ago!
I moved on to have a coffee at Alpacaccino’s the café a little further on in Callanish. As well as alpacas, exotic sheep, goats, chickens, peacocks and Indian runner ducks, I really admired the cappuccino marketing. I had my first alpacaccino – such a simple idea but very effective. Special mention should also be made of the chocolate brownie I had with it, with genuine and extremely indulgent hot Peruvian chocolate sauce, whilst being able to admire the friendly alpacas. Should you ever be on Lewis – http://www.callanishalpacas.co.uk/. Hot chocolate sauce was very welcome as it was rather cool as well as wet!
Then on abit further north to exploring the beaches at Dailbeag and Dailmor whilst dodging the heavy showers. I could also see there was a potentially passable coastal path that I might try on another day. It was on the road to Dailmor that from the car I also saw a much larger bird of prey, which I think was a juvenile golden eagle, but hoping to have some more definitive sightings in the days ahead. As is often the case there was a graveyard right by the beach at Dailmor, again with war graves and the lewis and harris men who had died in the HMS Iolaire disaster on 1st January 1919. So near to home and yet……
Contenders for wildlife of the day as well as the alpacas et al and the possible golden eagle (not photographed as I was driving!), was some really impressive lichen on one of the Callanish stones! This shot shows also some pale blue sky appeared at least at one point during the day
Wednesday, I decided to bite the bullet and drive to Leverburgh at the far end of Harris – so I could see the lay of the land and work out what else I might do travelling south from my base. The scenery, particularly the section leading to Tarbert was amazing, and the road had definitely been improved. The weather was kinder (well at least in the middle of the day!). Leverburgh turned out not to be very exciting, so I retraced back to a rustic café in Northton for a coffee, before exploring the beach and headland at Horgabost. At the café was a splendid young cat, who did briefly let me stroke him. I loved how well camouflaged he was for the local surroundings, his impressive tail and very tufty ears.
There is a wide selection of glorious sandy beaches, and turquoise seas in this part of Harris, and I am sure I will also go to Luskentyre and Hushinis at some point too. I had lunch overlooking the beach at Seilebost, in a parking space where camping overnight was allowed. The island you can see in the distance over my colourful lunch box and in the final picture below is Taransay (home of the year 2000 castaways on the BBC!).
The weather deteriorated to heavy rain, so I gently drove back and by the time it had cleared had a walk along the shore near the holiday let. Though I saw a scottie dog yesterday, sadly I haven’t seen any westies yet. I dont think this stuffed one I saw in a car counts (especially as it is wearing a tartan tam O shanter!)
Wildlife of the day: Lunch also included watching an industrious oyster catcher and more orchids were found on the headland at Horgabost, plus a magnificent mushroom!!
The Adventures of Alison 